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Wes Rowe and the San Francisco Burger Rampage 

Wednesday, Apr 27 2016
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I have definitely not had a patty melt in at least 20 years, and in spite of being burgered-out, I love it. We agree on the appealing quality to how the creamy Swiss cheese sauce on the patty melt sticks in our teeth.

"At Beep's, the burger is better than this, but this atmosphere makes it way better," he says, over the sound of an antique cash register. "The yellow light in that room, it's nice."

He admires the custom-built deep-fryer, the open layout, the San Francisco memorabilia mixed with Asian vases. The woman behind the counter dumps the afternoon's decaf into a bucket. It occurs to me that Wes Rowe is not exaggerating. This is his dream: a real, mid-century burger joint that allows him to thread the needle between haute burgers and comfort food, with an abundance of cred and room enough in the freezer for a trillion tater tots. And WesBurger 'N' More has only just begun to age in that direction.

"Somebody's already etched our mirrors in the bathroom," he says. "One of them is really small, in the corner, and the other one says, 'I love your food.' I was like, 'I'm mad, I'm not mad!' It's the best Yelp review I ever got."

About The Author

Peter Lawrence Kane

Peter Lawrence Kane is SF Weekly's Arts Editor. He has lived in San Francisco since 2008 and is two-thirds the way toward his goal of visiting all 59 national parks.

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