I was confused by the Waterfront, an imposing $3.25 million renovation at Pier 7 along the Embarcadero. It's split into two parts: a casual cafe specializing in seafood, and an elegant upstairs restaurant serving Asian fusion. Both are overseen by chef Bruce Hill, formerly of Oritalia.
The place looks classy on the outside so my group dressed nicely, although we were going to the cafe. Inside the big, airy space, there were some other dress-ups, but jeans and ski jackets (some on tourists enjoying their days out) predominated. And as it turns out, the cafe downstairs is almost as pricey as the higher-end restaurant upstairs, give or take five bucks per person.
I had reserved a table by the window, and by God, I was going to have it for my visiting friends, although the hostess first showed us to an inside table. When reminded of my request, she seated us outside in a tented patio, where hanging plastic sheets obscured the bay view to the point where I couldn't tell a ferry from a Hornblower yacht.
Well, that's tourism for you. The out-of-towners didn't notice, lulled to somnolence as they were by two searing portable heaters towering on either side of our table that made us feel -- until our waiter finally arrived and turned them down -- as though we were on the surface of the sun. By then we were sweating profusely in our dress-up clothes, seated on steel patio chairs and trying not to notice the indoor-outdoor carpeting punctuated with snaking lines of heater hose and duct tape.
It's really nice in summer, the waiter assured us -- the tent comes down and the heaters stay on. True: The Waterfront opens its full 100-seat outdoor patio to take advantage of the view.
Inside the cafe were exposed wood beams, ceiling fans, views of the Bay Bridge, and a noise level best described as "raucous." A TV over the long bar entertained guests, sometimes two and three deep. But we were outside, and there we stayed.
A refreshingly simple menu features California-Mediterranean treatment of traditional Fisherman's Wharf items and sophisticated salads and entrees. The inventive clam chowder ($7.75) was not overly rich and thick, as is so often the case. Instead, the creamy base tasted mostly of clams and smoky applewood bacon. Crab cakes ($9.50) were plump but bland, and an ample bowl of succulent little manila clams and roasted mussels was a good buy at $9.
Our waiter intoned that Michael Bauer of the Chronicle had liked the falafel-crusted sea bass ($18), so we figured we'd better order it. Michael's a smart guy: The bass was clearly the standout entree, its salty, crusty top balanced with perfectly sauteed fish and a light but flavorful dill and yogurt sumac sauce below. Other entrees weren't as impressive. Grilled swordfish ($19.50) was underflavored, though beautifully presented, stacked over a pool of red pepper puree with a contrasting circle of green olive oil. The same lack of flavor plagued the huge bouillabaisse of clams, mussels, prawns, swordfish, and salmon ($19), even with the obvious addition of saffron. The bargain entree -- salty, smoky linguine with smoked salmon and capers ($14) -- featured a creative sauce of chive mascarpone. Non-fish lovers have been considered, as the menu includes a New York steak with onion rings ($26) or a chicken breast with herbed polenta and spinach ($17).
Attentive waiters and waitstaff cleared and replenished Acme bread, utensils, and plates on several rounds. Our waiter made knowledgeable statements about wine, although he brought a substitution without telling us -- we were surprised to see a different name on the bill. The wine list is reasonably priced, with most bottles in the $25 to $35 range, representing a comparatively modest 100 percent markup.
For dessert we feasted on a gooey S'more sundae with layers of chocolate ice cream, crushed house-made grahams, hot fudge sauce, and a topping of melted marshmallow ($6.25). A sour cream cheesecake was too light and gelatinous to be a real treat, although prettily garnished with fresh strawberries and a strawberry sauce ($6.25).
When we were done, we hopped in the elevator for a quick look at how the other half dines. The views were clear, the sound level hushed, and the prices almost the same. Next time, we'll try upstairs.
