To the east of San Francisco resides the cradle of local, sustainable, organic California cooking that represents everything good for you and your natural environment. Head north and you'll find the pastoral vineyards of Napa and Sonoma leading to the world-renowned dining rooms of Meadowood and Thomas Keller. Look west and, well, eventually you'll get to Tokyo, the city that is home to the most Michelin stars in the world. But venture south of San Francisco? San Franciscans have always considered Silicon Valley the home of tech innovation and a fantastic place to work, but please save your meals for the big city.
This is just not true anymore. Peninsula residents and workers are done envying the rest of the Bay Area's riches of eating and drinking. Here are seven destinations that must top your list:
Ramen Dojo
Ramen Dojo's bowls of "sutamina" spicy garlic ramen are no secret to Peninsula diners who queue up day and night for the privilege of learning what "chicken gravy" is. As non-tempting as it sounds, it's a glorious umami spike of ground chicken, chopped shiitake mushrooms, and finely diced ginger together as a fatty, nutty butter added to each of Dojo ramens (best with the tonkotsu broth). Perfect noodles, a pair of roasted pork slices (more fat!), and a tiny quail egg complete the canvas with two outliers: red pepper strands and a strip of romaine lettuce. This is a whole new dimension of the common noodle soup.
805 S. B St., San Mateo, 650-401-6568
Gusto
For high-end dinners that make you wish you were a venture capitalist with an Atherton mansion, several restaurants are worth a visit on the Peninsula, even if they can't quite compete with Quince or Benu (except Manresa, which counts as the South Bay). A notch less formal is the same chef-driven, contemporary dining in posh surroundings, with entrees under $30. George Morrone is a renowned name in San Francisco and the mentor to Michael Mina. At Gusto, Morrone has resurfaced by doing beautiful work of beef tenderloin lifted by Barolo butter and a distinct inside-out rendition of the French classic cassoulet. Morrone's intricate Timeless Tuna Tartare remains the gold standard of a now-tired species, mixing pine nuts, diced Asian pear, chilies, and a splash of sesame oil into an artistic expression of spice and texture. Now, if only he would get rid of the boastful "timeless" tag.
619 Laurel St., San Carlos, 650-591-5700, gustosancarlos.com
Tai Wu
Sprawled across a massive, three-story palace, Tai Wu is the name to know in the intense Upper Peninsula dim sum battles, right by SFO in Millbrae. Dive into garlic- and jalapeño-stewed tripe; the impossible-to-describe tempura salted-egg-yolk pumpkin (what?); and the gentlest, not overpowering, durian custard pastries to accompany the parade of dumplings and steamed buns. The banal-sounding panfried noodles with fish is the crowning glory with the softest of fish and steamed mushrooms topping a crisp-exterior, soft-interior noodle-made pizza. No wonder Tai Wu can fill hundreds of seats daily.
300 El Camino Real, Millbrae, 650-697-7888, taiwurestaurants.com
Mediterranean Wraps
Hungry farmers market shoppers on Sundays, tech titans on weekdays, and flip-flop-wearing Stanford students descend on Mediterranean Wraps for the Bay Area's best falafel. Behold perfectly fried chickpea balls with a gorgeously soft center stained a lush green from parsley and green onions, complemented by the smoothest bowls of hummus and juicy beef and lamb shawarma sliced off a rotating spit then tucked in a fluffy pita with not a nub of gristle to be found. Those in the know pair it with a chai-enriched Turkish cappuccino from Zombie Runner next door and dine al fresco on the sidewalk.
433 California Ave., Palo Alto, 650-321-8189, kanzeman.com/medwraps
La Viga
Celebrations are in order at Redwood City's La Viga, thanks to Manuel Martinez's festive, refined Latin cuisine. La Viga is the main seafood market of Martinez's hometown, Mexico City. Following suit, the ceviches and seafood paella are must-orders, as are the addictive coconut-fried prawns matched with a tomatillo rice, and shrimp and mushroom empanadas. While "mixology" is now past its peak in San Francisco, La Viga is the rare Peninsula bright spot for cocktailians. Lunch or dinner here makes you almost want a reason to visit the nearby DMV. Almost.
1772 Broadway, Redwood City, 650-679-8141, lavigarestaurant.com
Hop Dogma Brewing Company
It's not all about the hops at Hop Dogma Brewing Company; it's just mostly about them. Hops in beers like The Dude with Galaxy and Equinox Ella aren't going out of style anytime soon, yet somehow this author's favorite brew of a recent tasting was the Night Owl Coffee Stout brewed with beans from San Francisco's venerable Graffeo Roasters. Hoppy? Not hardly. The brewery started as a hobby, like so many new breweries do. In the subsequent year and a half, it has become the de facto town hall for coastal residents and beer-minded visitors. Nothing beats a hop-fueled Dennis the Geriatric Double IPA followed by a hop across the street to the beach.
30 Avenida Portola, El Granada, 650-560-8729, hopdogma.com
The Refuge
On the subject of beer, The Refuge's brews lay the foundation for the Reuben you've been waiting for since that last visit to Katz's in New York (sorry, Wise Sons), anchored by downright perfect pastrami. And with them, there are bountiful taps of Belgian beers to enjoy. Is this a natural duo? Not really, but who doesn't love world-class pastrami and brews? They were destined for each other. At night, you'll have the rare opportunity to close the Menlo Park bar with a Moinette Brune at 9 p.m. on a weekday. After all, you're still on the Peninsula. Eating and drinking have improved, but they're still operating at suburban hours. Small steps are necessary to achieve big-city nightlife, so let's applause the recent growth proving the suburbs know how to eat and drink.
963 Laurel St., San Carlos, 650-598-9813, refugesc.co; 1143 Crane St., Menlo Park, 650-319-8197
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