Liquor ain't cheap, and that's true on both sides of the bar. Getting a full liquor license isn't always feasible, especially if a restaurant is small or just starting out. But how do you appeal to a cocktail crowd, when tequila, gin, vodka, and rum aren't in your arsenal of spirits? Session cocktails, of course.
A term borrowed from the craft beer world, where it describes brews with lower ABV (alcohol by volume), session cocktails use vermouth, port, and other fortified liquors as the base. Though the restriction of sticking to spirits under 15 percent ABV limits some mixologists, it inspires others. Session cocktails are also ideal for brunches, luncheons, and daytime drinking in general, with just enough alcohol to take off the edge without pushing you over it.
Here's four hot spots to get sessions in SF.
Huxley
The king of the session cocktail, owner Kris Esqueda (Saison, Sons & Daughters) mixes a mean Vincenzo Cappotti. Made with Cappalletti and Cava, it's softer than a traditional Negroni, and reminiscent of an orange Creamsicle on ice.But don't let the simplicity fool you. Esqueda also crafts more curious concoctions, such as the Pumpkin & Honeybunny(made with house Pimm's, cucumber, lemon, and ginger beer). The Quentin Tarantino theme that carries throughout his cocktails started with the Bonal Coolidge and generally stuck. Made with Bonal, Cappalletti, Oloroso sherry, dry vermouth, and orange bitters, it's fruity but not sweet, with a strong hint of nuttiness underneath. The Future's Bright is Esqueda's cure to the common hangover. Made with Cynar (an artichoke liqueur), mint, lime, soda, simple syrup and aromatic bitters, it's earthy and herbal.
Hillside Supper Club
Though Hillside is better known for its exquisite taste in wine, a selection of three-to-five session cocktails also graces the menu. Made with Alvera cream sherry, a touch of Mr. Espresso coffee, smoked syrup, and lemon, the Mr. Gomez pays homage to a former owner known for taking a smoke along with his coffee and cocktails. The drink is crisp and clean, with the citrus of the lemon brining out bright notes in the coffee. Hillside's Mack is made with house-made nectarine shrub, dry imbue, Champ Divin Macvin du Jura, lime zest, and a spicy black pepper that gives it the kick of a Bloody Mary, making it a great drink for brunch. Like Huxley's Vincenzo Cappotti, Hillside's Negroni is made with Cappalletti Apperitivo, but it's a bit sharper and more bitter (though still more friendly than the traditional Italian spritz).
Cassava
On a corner in the Outer Richmond, this modern California eatery offers a smashing prix fixe option with wine and beer pairings to match (plus a la carte options). But if a session is what you're after, they have those as well. The sangria, made with fresh seasonal fruit and a combination of red and white wines, is light and fruity, more like drinking juice than a cocktail, while Cassava's rosemary cocktail is similarly crisp, though somewhat watered down, tasting more of sherry and vermouth than the lovely stalk of rosemary that garnishes the glass.
Myriad Gastropub
With a dinner menu that nods toward a mezcla of culinary influences, Myriad's drink menu does much the same, with session cocktails offering interesting alternatives to the traditional G-and-T. The Eastern Orchid is reminiscent of a lemon drop but less sugary and more herbal, with a soju and lemongrass base mixed with ginger and lemon juice. The Orpheus blends fino sherry, sweet vermouth, and dry vermouth with orange bitters and Meyer lemon for a nutty citrus combination that makes for a decent palate teaser. A combination of prosecco, Lillet Blanc and elderflower, the Ruby Slipper is an elegant pre- or post-dinner drink, while the Guinness-and-blackberry-based Black and White Ball begs for a food pairing. The full menu includes roughly a dozen session cocktails, more than one can consume in an evening, even with that low ABV.