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The Mindful Meats team knows all of its ranchers' practices and visits each on a weekly basis, regularly going through a supplier checklist to verify they meet the non-GMO standards and organic certifications relating to the feed the cattle are eating. The team even conducts DNA testing on feed sources such as alfalfa, to ensure it has not been genetically modified.
Rather than sourcing cows raised solely for beef, Mindful Meats works with organic dairy farmers, purchasing cows that have been raised for milk and butter, and following old-world traditions of respecting the animal at the end of its lifecycle by harvesting it for meat. The meat from those older animals has a distinctive flavor that shines through in ground beef, something that appeals to chefs such as Chris Kronner of KronnerBurger. "He dry-ages the cuts and then grinds the meat," says Mindful Meats' founder and CEO Claire Herminjard.
Mindful Meats isn't just focused on supplying quality meat to restaurants. "Our goal is to get clean meat and protein into communities that really need it — like the sick and the young," says the company's COO Clifford Pollard. "We are trying to reverse antibiotic resistance, which is much more likely if you use traditional meat sources, by offering clean protein." Pollard says Mindful Meats is about ready to close a deal that will have the company supplying 100 percent of the ground beef used at Stanford Hospitals.
Mindful Meats' model relies heavily on high-end restaurants buying premium beef cuts — Bar Tartine and Cockscomb are customers — so that other parts of the animal can be used for ground beef and hot dogs, and sold, often at break-even prices, to underserved communities such as the Oakland Unified School District. "Working with large corporate buyers and high-end chefs allows us to fulfill our mission of getting clean meat into the communities that need it," Herminjard says.
Large food buyers have long struggled to find a clean protein source that's scalable. Today, Mindful Meats is working with LinkedIn and Twitter and is trying to develop more business with corporate food service providers in the Bay Area. "The corporate world has done a lot to support the sustainable or non-conventional food world. We are grateful for that and hope it continues," Herminjard says.
One looming question hovering over a food network that otherwise appears almost frictionless is the California drought and its impact on supply and pricing. According to Sobel of RN74, the drought has had a major impact. "While there hasn't been a shortage of any one vegetable, costs have definitely spiked, without a doubt," Sobel says. His colleague, chef Chris Curtiss of Bourbon Steak and Pub at Levi's Stadium in Santa Clara, agrees. "It's scary, and it's not just about micro pricing and availability," says Curtiss.
"Something drastic has to happen with the way farming is looked at if the drought continues. There may need to be a shift in the way things are grown and produced," Curtiss says. "The natural next step is possibly hydroponics. It's a costly investment which uses 10 times less water — it's the most productive and least water-using technique."
Another technique is so-called dry farming, a practice whereby crops such as tomatoes and apples are given no water beyond the little they get when they're first planted. Known to improve the flavor, the technique results in fruit that contains less water content and a greater density of sugar and other flavor compounds. "Dry farming makes the flavor more concentrated," says Bar Tartine's Burns. "We love it." The one drawback is that it dramatically reduces yields, which also affects pricing.
There's no doubt the food industry will continue to feel the impact of the drought way beyond the Bay Area. According to a recent study compiled by The New York Times using data from the Agricultural Issues Center at the University of California at Davis, the average American consumes more than 300 gallons of California water each week by eating food produced here.
"As part of our methodology to grow the most flavorful crops we can, we are fastidious in regards to our water usage," Full Table Farm's Enos says. "With crops like tomatoes, it is not uncommon for us to turn off the water to them over the summer months once they have been established. While our heavy clay soil gives us challenges in other ways, it does do a great job of holding onto water. We also use a good amount of mulching with various things on the farm, such as tree leaves, pruning chippings, and other ground-up materials. Dried sunflower stalks are one of our favorites."
It's not just produce that needs water. Much has been documented about the amount of water livestock requires, not just for the animals' own consumption but also for the feed to supplement their diets when grass is in short supply.
"The pasture season has shortened, the ranchers' output of hay and silage from their own ranches has decreased," Mindful Meats' Herminjard explains. "Therefore, they must buy hay, alfalfa, silage, or other dry matter from third parties. The drought affects all types of farmers, hay growers included, who are simultaneously seeing increased demand for purchased feed."
Inevitably, all of this leads to increased costs to the ranches, which ultimately means an increase in the price of the end product. In addition, the drought has affected the Great Plains, and in 2014 the U.S. beef herd as a whole was the smallest it has been in 63 years, while global demand is at an all-time high.
"Even though we are a niche beef business, our cow prices are affected by the larger market," Herminjard says. "Last year, we saw a price increase of over 40 percent, while this year prices are remaining stable, thanks to the U.S. beef herd showing its first increase in eight years."
Back in the kitchen, chefs are being just as attentive about their water usage. The drought has "inspired an increased focus on product utilization and other food waste reduction efforts," says Harland. "As a team we are hyperaware of water usage and police one another throughout the day to avoid improper use. Every team member is empowered to call another team member out if they see waste. It makes the day fun and we get better in the process."
It takes a village to raise the delicious, locally grown, seasonal foods that travel from the farms of the North Bay to our tables at home, work, or in the finest restaurants. So, next time you raise a forkful, pause for a moment to reflect on the relationships among the chefs and farmers that have made it perfect, even in light of challenging climate issues.
"We will continue to grow and foster good relationships with the farming community and producers," Keller says. "We look to them to provide the freshest, best-quality product and respect that by the way we work with it."
Ultimately, the proof, as they say, is in the pudding. Your taste buds won't fool you.
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