If Richie Nakano's foie gras opener at Hapa Ramen is any indication, chefs spent their free time during the luxe liver's two-and-a-half-year hiatus in California wisely rethinking its pairings and presentation on a plate. A terrine of foie gras ($22) is shrouded in bright pink rhubarb drapery and crowned with an artist's touch of microgreens and edible flowers. Dots of rhubarb syrup lead to a pair of buttermilk foam pools with a caramelized white chocolate powder in which the powder and foam together become a savory room-temperature version of hot chocolate wonderfully playing off the slick liver. What a fresh, luxurious, and distinctly springtime tableau that fully comes together when slathered on toast.
The city has anxiously awaited an opportunity to have a full sit-down Hapa experience since a previously procured location on Fillmore evaporated and now is a part of The Progress. A year later, Hapa has a home in the heart of the Mission, and each night this home feels like a dinner party with Nakano donning his signature Giants hat and producing food worth the long wait. Folks are downright having fun. For good reason.
Without question, the trio of ramens will cause the most debate among diners, but in reality they only share the marquee despite being in the restaurant's name. The shoyu broth ($11) was chicken-based — nourishing but timid — while the spicy tonkotsu ramen ($14) boasted a restrained pork intensity; if there were any spices, they couldn't be detected. Both are still enjoyable but a spice jolt would help the tonkotsu. Of the three bowls, the sweet and earthy balance of the carrot-miso broth ($9) in the veggie bowl captivated most.
Since Hapa wisely has two ramen sizes, a party of four could easily order each small ramen and the rest of the menu for a perfect feast. (Other ramen restaurants take note.) Besides that option, what sets these ramens apart from many peers are the noodles themselves and the high-caliber supporting cast to the broths. Tonkotsu sports bright red chili noodles with a fetching smoky note and springy whole wheat noodles for the miso-veggie and the shoyu. This jaded pork belly eater saw the meat's light again in a thick slab similar to well-marbled steak, with thin fat streaks crowning the shoyu bowl in royal fashion.
My problem with the signature "Big Daddy" at the Ferry Building stall has been soggy fried chicken garnishes, but here the restaurant has upped its game in the shoyu version, absorbing broth without losing its personality like non-sticky sauce-coated boneless chicken wing. It's flat-out awesome. The tonkotsu ends up rocking out from a piece of pork grilled over bincho coals, amplifying the smoke in the noodles. The garnishes go all Christopher Walken here, being supporting roles that steal the show.
Like in the shoyu ramen, fried chicken in the bao ($5) is ideal: moist and tender interior with a gentle crisp exterior. The three-bite package soars with its dab of hot sauce and bread-and-butter pickles in the center (and high praise is warranted for the bun actually being warm). Early spring asparagus is lightly cured and topped with candied lemon, fried asparagus shavings, spring onions, and dabs of whole grain mustard and trout roe ($14), showing a smart and careful hand with produce. Pork dumplings are another worthwhile order, loading a bowl of soy-heavy "Sanbaizu" ($11) that could use some more kick from the chili oil.
Desserts include a made-in-house cookie dough ice cream and a superb dense chocolate pudding topped with coconut toffee crumble ($8) that I'd order on its own.
Hapa channels two recent trends, following 4505 Meats from its Ferry Building stall and Liholiho Yacht Club from its pop-up concept (often Hapa was at Wing Wing's or Bar Tartine) to a bona fide restaurant. Like those venues, this Hapa edition is set for the long run, requiring a complete build-out of a former 99-cent store. The front half features a wooden lattice bar and two standing-only high tables. Toward the rear open kitchen are a pair of communal tables and a row of semi-secretive tatami-style booths, all under a ceiling of exposed air ducts and set to an ear-ringing hip-hop and techno soundtrack.
It's a hopping space, with cocktails ($11) dominating the drink choices. Opt for the frothy rum and amaro "Skipper's Sour" or the bourbon forward "Tropic Thunder" with faint back notes of banana and cacao.
Overall, knocks are hard to find, but do pass on the harsh, unbalanced "White Oak" cocktail. As well, the puffy tapioca cracker serving as the base for a lovely tartare of precise halibut cubes, uni emulsion, and avocado, unfortunately, is as chewy as a dog toy.
Everything in the bowl of robust garlic fried rice ($13) topped with intensely marinated shaking beef tenderloin, shrimp, and calamari tossed with a soft egg is a hit except for the dry scallops.
Servers are helpful and sharp at pacing, except that one visit included a 30-minute wait despite a reservation, and for some reason I had to be reminded that Pinot Blanc is a white wine. Again, it's a cocktail place.
Luckily, you no longer have to track down pop-ups or dine with sea gulls: Hapa is now a Mission mainstay, and you'll be rewarded with the riveting cooking you've waited for — both as ramen and far-beyond bowls of noodles.
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