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Barely larger than a shack, the First and Last Chance Saloon squeezes a warehouse's worth of history into its tiny square form. Jack London used to drink here - as the many signs, plaques, and other knick-knacks attest - and the walls and ceiling are crammed full of antique Western memorabilia. Merely breathing Heinold's dark, dusty air evokes this bar's 19th Century origins, even if gleaming new high-rise buildings sit mere feet outside the windows. If you can find a spare seat, order a cocktail from the nattily-dressed bartender and return immediately to your table before setting your drink down - because the bar itself slants at a dangerous angle, thanks to the 1906 earthquake's mighty seismic shift.

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