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Still, we looked around us with some pleasure, knowing that more than the food is changing here. The Cliff House has been perpetually doomed to play the phoenix, rising again and again from its own ashes. It's about to rise again. The GGNRA has realized that its most popular man-made attraction has spent the last half-century decked out in clam-diggers, Cuban heels, and a beehive hairdo. The towering, elegant grande dame of the 1890s is gone forever, but the Cliff House renovation of our own fin de siecle may at least restore the old gal's dignity.
Tags: Eat, Reviewed, Adolph Sutro, Alan Goldstein, Shrimp Louis, Camera Obscura (Band), The Cliff House Bistro
