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Food & Drink

Best Steak 

Bobo's

The location is uninspiring: a boxy two-story building next to a Travelodge on a dull block of Lombard. The décor, which strives for gaiety (red-painted walls, Venetian-inspired lanterns, large dolls based on the Italian jester who inspired the restaurant and Web site's name), is kinda tacky. In the warren of cramped spaces, there doesn't seem to be a really comfortable, good seat in the house. (Well, maybe a couple of the booths upstairs.) But, despite all that, we long to return to Bobo's for another crack at the best steak in San Francisco. Bobo's has a source for dry-aged beef that's four to six weeks old, instead of the markedly inferior wet-aged beef served most other places. (We wish Cryovac had never been invented.) The bone-in filet mignon and the bone-in New York are works of art: buttery, deep-flavored meat under a good seared crust. Bobo's even separates and cooks the two sides of a Porterhouse separately, due to their uneven thicknesses. Genius.

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