For a while there, Tú Lan was reduced to being the butt of a tired joke. Julia Child loved it — but so did the vermin, and after four temporary closures for health code violations, Tú Lan shuttered seemingly for good in July 2012. Somehow, Sixth Street's anchor tenant regrouped, and the results are as startling as they are comforting: The imperial rolls remain peerless, and the service is still brusque, but Tú Lan 2.0 got clean and stayed clean. It is just about the gold standard for an inexpensive, high-quality meal.
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