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Food & Drink

Best New Sushi 

Maruya

With his diminutive Mission District restaurant set in the former Bar Bambino space, chef-owner Masaki Sasaki is introducing a special style of sushi-making to a neighborhood fraught with fried roll abominations. Sasaki shows off a rare practice originated in Tokyo called edomae. On the surface, it looks like what we think of as nigiri, in which fish is presented simply over rice, but the edomae fish selections are often marinated or even cured before serving. The results melt in your mouth via an evolving palette of flavors. The meal choices are omakase, which means Sasaki decides the actual contents over a leisurely paced meal in a tranquil room. In other words, you'll have to look elsewhere for that quick fix of spicy tuna and California rolls served over house music beats, and that is truly refreshing.

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