The "Frog Legs Bernard Loiseau" served at Chef Roland Passot's temple of French cuisine honor both their inspiration — the brilliant but tortured chef who committed suicide when it was rumored that his three-star restaurant might be reduced to two stars — and Passot, who one trusts approaches the first San Francisco Michelin guide (coming this fall) with a greater sense of equanimity. This dish is one of La Folie's best, at the same time modern and traditional: a ring of plump, juicy, sautéed frogs' legs set around a target of snowy garlic purée and bright-green parsley coulis. It's pretty and delicious, the main ingredient a rare and welcome sight on local menus.
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