Named after the concept of a proper Southern meal (an entrée plus three side dishes), Chef Brenda Buenviaje has expanded the culinary reach of her eponymous Polk Street restaurant far beyond her hometown of New Orleans. It is a gut-busting endeavor, from the shrimp hushpuppies to the ham steak with red eye gravy to the po' boys that pretty much have to be eaten open-faced. Here, mac and cheese is considered a vegetable and you should probably eat at least one serving daily. If you love the beignets at Brenda's mother ship, don't miss the calas, served hot from the fryer with molasses butter.
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