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Belcampo: Sustainable Meat on Russian Hill 

Wednesday, Jun 25 2014

The fourth location of the 2-year-old Belcampo Meat Company — after Larkspur, downtown L.A. and Santa Barbara — has come to Russian Hill, and it is a beauty. If the sight of a pestle full of lard sitting in a display case causes you to fibrillate with joy, you're going to want to poke your head in.

A combination restaurant and butcher shop, Belcampo is a bright, clean corner spot with lots of blue tile and a lots of choice offerings. The sitdown half is dinner-only, with slightly baroque entrees such as a braised lamb belly and neck, a pork chop with salsa criolla and savory corn pudding, and a fried half guinea hen. Beer and wine service is forthcoming (we are told). If you're just running in for something to cook for dinner, you've got options — all of them raised by Belcampo or, in the case of turkeys, by known quantities such as BN Ranch. Traditional, integrated methods of animal husbandry pay off, as a bite of pork pâté, fragrant and well-spiced like a glorious sausage, revealed.

Weirdly, Belcamo's stylized B logo looks a lot like Bi-Rite Market's, but that shouldn't cause much confusion. The bull head atop the lintel as you walk in, like something out of a Mithraic cult, might function as some Ancient Babylonian vegan repellent but it's pretty cool (and relax, vegetarians and vegans can get a plate of grilled summer vegetables with long-cooked tomato, basil, and quinoa). But Belcampo is a meat-lovers dream, through and through. Hard to imagine that at one time, animal butchery was the lowest of the low occupations and its practitioners were consigned to Butchertown.

About The Author

Pete Kane

Pete Kane

Pete Kane is a total gaylord who is trying to get to every national park before age 40


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