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Here at
SF Weekly we are always on the lookout for highbrow-lowbrow foods. It's the one thing that keeps us all from descending into pure foodie preciousness or forgetting that the world does not subsist on braised octopus and avocado toast. We don't drink the proverbial Kool-Aid here, unless it's laced with Zima or something equally trashy-hot.
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I wrote a few days ago that
Umami Burger has a dessert slider available at all its Bay Area locations, and now I've tried it. It's good: a "patty" of salted caramel ice cream, drizzled with dulce de leche and a Larder Bakery brioche bun topped with powdered sugar in the shape of a U (which Umami Burger also does out on its savory burgers, by searing them). They're two for $8 and let me say that it pairs curiously well with bubbles.
The ice cream was a little soft, but that only made the brioche do the Lord's work. Since you can't serve a hot bun on ice cream, it's a room temperature brioche that absorbs some of the chill, which then makes it slightly tough to chew. That is, until it absorbs some of the melty ice cream and you have a salted caramel variation on bread pudding.
Rumor has it that this is just the opening salvo in a vastly expanded menu at Umami Burger, so stay tuned for more.