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Wednesday, January 27, 2016

Wednesday Nine: Lexington Club to Become Wildhawk, Richie Nakano on Kitchen Pranks

Posted By on Wed, Jan 27, 2016 at 2:30 PM

click to enlarge MINA Test Kitchen's Company Samosas with Vadouvan - KEVIN MCCULLOUGH
  • Kevin McCullough
  • MINA Test Kitchen's Company Samosas with Vadouvan

Plus lots more news in Michael Mina World after Monday's announcement that Bourbon Steak was closing: MINA Test Kitchen rolls out its third pop-up (it's Indian), and RN74 turns Sunday night over to a pop-up kitchen of its own. And more!

Wildhawk to Take Over the Lexington Club Space
In the bar column for tomorrow's issue of SF Weekly, I mused about PlumpJack Group's having their hands full with Forgery and Verso and letting the former Lexington Club space lie fallow for awhile. Well, that information is already out-of-date before publication, because PlumpJack has announced that Wildhawk will open in mid-March. It's going to be a fancy cocktail bar with room for 49 souls, one for every metaphorical square mile of this city. And in a nod to the raucous dykes who kept the Lex going for so long, the name is a nod to "San Francisco’s original ;bad girl' and dancer of the 1800’s, Lola Montez, who was known around town as being a wild hawk." 
Wildhawk, 3464 19th St.

Richie Nakano on Kitchen Pranks
Writing in Chefs Feed, Richie Nakano lays out some back-of-house pranks, noting that they "aren’t all about anarchy: a kitchen’s gotta have a code." All three are pretty vengeful, but following the proverb that revenge is a dish best served cold, the "Deep Freeze" is probably the most spiteful.

MINA Test Kitchen's Third Pop-Up Arrives March 1
MINA experiment no. 3 will be The Company, a three-month-long Indian pop-up collaboration between Michael Mina and special guest chef Vikrant Bhasin that references the English East India Company. Look for spiced crab salad with anardana over papad, mango saffron kulfis, and Sonoma lamb simmered in yogurt, cloves, ginger, red chilies, and stinging nettles. At $49 for seven courses and $69 for 11 (with optional $29/$40 beverage pairings), it's about as good a deal as you're going to find anywhere. Note: While The Company opens March 1, Chef Adam Sobel's current Little Italy pop-up only runs through Valentine's Day.
MINA Test Kitchen, 2120 Greenwich, 415-310-8371 or

RN74's "Les Experiments"
There's a lot going on in the land of Mina this week. Sunday evenings at RN74 will henceforth be “Les Experiments,” a rotating, $49 menu of unusual or avant-garde French fare inspired by the success of the MINA Test Kitchen. The family-style meals will dovetail with the restaurant's large, Burgundy-heavy wine list, and include an amuse bouche, apps, entrees, side dishes, and dessert, plus an optional $10 supplement. 
RN74, 301 Mission, 415-543-7474 or

Belcampo Meat's Mission Location to Close Next Week
Inside Scoop caught that Belcampo Meat's location at Mission and 15th streets, which was 4505 Meats not so very long ago, will shut its doors today. If you hurry, you can get 25 percent off. But seriously, hurry.
Belcampo Meat, 1909 Mission.,

The New Yorker on the Mast Brothers Scandal

Wasn't the downfall of the arrogant Mast Brothers more bitterly delicious than even a 72 percent cacao bar? But it's also revealing of a disturbing phenomenon. In "The Way Forward for Hipster Food," the New Yorker's Dana Goodyear writes about "a creeping dislike of the fakery inherent in the craft-food movement and a suspicion of so-called hipsters." I would volunteer that "hipster" isn't so much a stable category as an ever-shifting and occasionally self-contradictory composite of pet peeves and exaggerations — but yeah, fuck that precious, fraudulent, nakedly capitalist bullshit.

Awww: Sweethearts Candy Yanks at the Heartstrings
Via AdWeek, to celebrate its 150th anniversary, Necco candy shines a light on Jack and George, a Texas couple who got married after 55 years together. Gay or straight, couples who've woken up next to each other for more than half a century and still love each other are just wonderful to see, even if Neccos are chalky and kinda gross.

A Headline You Never Want to Write.
"Second Teen Dies After Drinking Racing Fuel Mixed With Soda." Oh, Lord. (Note: It did not happen in Florida.)

The Best Wines to Pair With Trefoils
I'm pretty sure this has made the rounds before, but it's Samoa season, so here's your handy wine and Girl Scout Cookies guide from Vivino. (BTW, Rioja goes well with Samoas or so they say.)

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About The Author

Peter Lawrence Kane

Peter Lawrence Kane is SF Weekly's Arts Editor. He has lived in San Francisco since 2008 and is two-thirds the way toward his goal of visiting all 59 national parks.


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