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Tuesday, January 12, 2016

Tuesday Eight: The Wooden Nickel Opens in the Mission, Burlingame Gets a Nacho Restaurant

Posted By on Tue, Jan 12, 2016 at 2:15 PM

Purveyors of the Triangular Arts in Burlingame. - INSTAGRAM/NACHORIA
  • Instagram/Nachoria
  • Purveyors of the Triangular Arts in Burlingame.

Plus the Keystone puts out a new brunch menu, Pyramid Alehouse leaves the Bay Area, Campbell's will disclose GMOs, the Playboy Mansion is up for sale, and the New York Times douses Per Se and lights it on fire.

The Wooden Nickel Now Open in the Former Truck Space
The Wooden Nickel, a project from an all-female trio of Mission bar veterans, is now open at 14th and Folsom streets, where Truck used to be. It was a quiet launch, but of course Broke-Ass Stuart found his way in within a couple of days. And he approves: Compared with the shift towards ever-fancier-all-the-time, Wooden Nickel "completely bucks that trend. It says, 'fuck pretension, let’s drink.'” The grand opening is this Friday, Jan. 15.
The Wooden Nickel, 1900 Folsom, 415-252-0306.

Nacho Ordinary Restaurant
We have many restaurants dedicated to grilled cheese, so why not nachos? Eater reports that Burlingame just got a nacho restaurant called Nachoria, whose menu covers the basics (carne asada, a bucket of six Pacificos for $240) while also pleasing more sophisticated palates with battered white fish and bellinis. Also, the logo looks a lot like the eye-in-the-pyramid on the back of the $1 bill. The Illuminati love tortillas with melted cheese, bro!
Nachoria, 226 Lorton Ave., Burlingame, 650-581-1321.

The Playboy Mansion is on the Market
Although Hugh Hefner's residence is "non-negotiable," the Playboy Mansion is being sold. The six-bedroom house in Holmby Hills has a "party-ready kitchen has a butler pantry and a walk-in refrigerator and freezer" and might be the only home in Los Angeles with a zoo license, according to the Wall Street Journal. Having used the waterfall urinal at the Madonna Inn, I have my heart set on partying in California's second-kitschiest bathroom, one of these days.

The Keystone Rolls Out a New Brunch Menu
Executive Chef Banks White has debuted a Southern-inflected brunch menu at The Keystone, with a Southern fried chicken benedict, braised short rib and potato hash, fried ribs and pickles, and a three-egg ham omelet. There are also some boozy brunch drinks like a five-liquor Long Island Iced Coffee (St. George NOLA coffee liqueur, mezcal, scotch, orgeat, and Fernet) and the beautifully named Oprah's Favorite Thing (Ketel Orange, chai spice, and lemon).
The Keystone, 68 Fourth St., 415-777-1200 or

Pyramid Alehouse Closes Last Bay Area Location
Although it's about to be Beer Week, don't expect much from a veteran of the craft beer scene. According to the Business Times, Pyramid Alehouse has closed its Walnut Creek location, after shuttering its Berkeley and Sacramento taprooms in the past few years. 

Premier Cru Files Chapter 11
The pyramid-related alcohol sadz aren't contained to beer, either. The Business Times reports that Premier Cru, the Berkeley wine merchant busted last year for bilking mostly-foreign customers out of rare wines in a massive pyramid scheme, has filed for bankruptcy.

Campbell's Will Label GMOs
Campbell, which makes the well-known soups as well as tons of other common brands like Pepperidge Farm, Prego, Plum Organics and V8, will start disclosing genetically modified ingredients in the next 12 to 18 months. This is partly due to a Vermont law mandating G.M.O. labeling. (As California sets the trends with emissions standards, and Texas does with revisionist history textbooks, so does plucky Vermont with packaging.) However, according to the New York Times, Campbell is the first major food company to call for a federal standard. Although head-scratching from a scientific perspective ("genetically modified" is not an ingredient per se), more than nine out of 10 Americans support labeling.

The New York Times' Pete Wells Eviscerates Thomas Keller's Per Se
"Respectaby dull" is probably one of the best put-downs I've heard in awhile, but if you're in the mood for some food critic dynamite, the NYT's Pete Wells has torn Thomas Keller's famed Midtown Manhattan flagship, Per Se, to shreds. He calls it a "grand, hermetic, self-regarding, ungenerous restaurant," with a "lukewarm matsutake mushroom bouillon as murky and appealing as bong water." The lobster? "Gristle of the sea."

I share Wells' frustration with noxious upcharges, and he writes, "The supplements at Per Se can cause indignation, among other emotions. When my server asked, 'Would you like the foie gras' — $40 more — 'or the salad?,' the question had an air of menace ... With or without supplemental charges, though, Per Se is among the worst food deals in New York." Bottom line? "Even canonic dishes could be mangled."

And remember, Wells loved Señor Frog's.

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About The Author

Peter Lawrence Kane

Peter Lawrence Kane is SF Weekly's Arts Editor. He has lived in San Francisco since 2008 and is two-thirds the way toward his goal of visiting all 59 national parks.


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