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Monday, January 4, 2016

Cadence, From a Maven Owner, Soft-Opens Tonight on Mid-Market

Posted By on Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 4:16 PM

click to enlarge PETER LAWRENCE KANE
  • Peter Lawrence Kane

When Eater asked a bunch of Bay Area food writers their thoughts on the best dining neighborhoods of 2015, several people said Mid-Market. (I think that a string of high-profile openings in the Marina changed it profoundly, but in all honesty, it’s not quite the same thing as the zero-to-sixty shift in a tiny cluster of Mid-Market.)

click to enlarge PETER LAWRENCE KANE
  • Peter Lawrence Kane

Hot on the heels of Alta CA, Bon Marche, the Cadillac Bar, Dirty Habit, and others is Cadence, which soft-opens tonight. It’s attached to the already-open jazz bar Mr. Tipple’s Recording Studio, where I was having drinks and ice cream with friends, so the coincidental timing worked nicely. (We were debating what the space had been; it's just below OneTaste, the slightly cultish-seeming orgasmic meditation organization.)

Although the interior had a slightly subterranean feel owing to the papered-over windows, Cadence is very impressive, in an updated Jet Set kind of way. There are tables that sit between aggressively polished wooden whalebone structures, and tiled “teacup” booths with retro-mod lighting embedded in them, along with a sculpted cityscape in the foyer, flanked by punched-tin lamps. A project of founder Jay Bordeleau, the owner of Maven, Cadence’s executive chef is Joey Elenterio, who did time at Spago, Chez TJ, and Wayfare Tavern.

click to enlarge PETER LAWRENCE KANE
  • Peter Lawrence Kane

There are three menus: prix fixe, a la carte, and dessert. The prix fixe menu, divided into “in the ground or from a stem” and “above ground or from the water,” involves haute-experimental things like a sturgeon and its caviar with sourdough crème fraîche, soft-cooked eggs, and tarragon; and vanilla bean panna cotta with banana pudding, chicory granité, and caramelized banana gelée. The a la carte menu has $13 cocktails plus snacks (roasted olives, gravlax arancini) for $7, appetizers (Indian fry bread, roasted spicy cauliflower) for $14, “in-betweens” (a mélange of seafood wit octopus and catfish, black pepper ricotta dumplings) for $18, and entrees (burnt miso-braised beef cheeks, half an air-dried Mary’s chicken) for $26.

In other words, it’s a swank affair, very much in the style of its recent forebears in one of the most quickly evolving neighborhoods in S.F. It’s a bit early yet for prognostication, but with year-end lists still fresh on my mind, we can expect Cadence to show up on 2016’s batch.

Cadence, 1446 Market, 415-851-8561.

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About The Author

Peter Lawrence Kane

Peter Lawrence Kane is SF Weekly's Arts Editor. He has lived in San Francisco since 2008 and is two-thirds the way toward his goal of visiting all 59 national parks.


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