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Wednesday, December 2, 2015

Wednesday Seven: Bye-Bye, Roosevelt Tamale Parlor; Hello, yūgen

Posted By on Wed, Dec 2, 2015 at 12:00 PM

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Plus truffles and Trestle, a holiday feast at Hopscotch, and recreating wine Jesus would drink.

Roosevelt Tamale Parlor to Close Dec. 6
Oh, man, this one hurts, partly because I once went there right after a horrible breakup. Mission Local reported that Roosevelt Tamale Parlor is shutting down on Dec. 6 after almost a hundred years. It is not a landlord issue, but one that seems to tie into the Mission's woes as a neighborhood bleeding its working class. While the current owners don't blame a higher minimum wage per se, they note that it's hard to retain staff at even that newly raised pay rate. (Prop J, the heritage business assistance program would be "not enough.") Note: If you're a fan of neon signs, it's possible to get a great shot of Roosevelt Tamale Parlor and Pop's, if you find the sweet spot.

A Mysterious Pop-Up at Marla Bakery
A cryptically named pop-up called yūgen - All My Friends by one Ken Cazenas takes over the 22-seat Marla Bakery next Monday, Dec 7 for an eight-course, $94.40 dinners inspired his buds. "​I​ did not set out to merely create dishes with conventional flavor combinations," he says, "but rather to describe a certain person or memory through a dish. a dish that reminds me of who this person is to me." The only dish we know of for sure is called Everything but The Bagel (cream cheese panna cotta, poppy seed, sesame, caraway, brittle, maldon salt and onion ash). Oh yeah, it's BYOB. Intriguing...
yūgen - All My Friends, Monday, Dec. 7, 7 p.m., $94.40, at Marla Bakery, 3619 Balboa, 415-742-4379 or marlabakery.com.

Hopscotch Holiday Feast
If you like the holidays but think they're best celebrated at a Japanese-American diner in Oakland, we have something for you. From tomorrow (Dec. 3) through Dec. 27 (Xmas Day excepted), Hopscotch will put out a rotating weekly menu item with a winter chill in mind. There will be porchetta and lamb, but the really cool one is a Feast of the Seven Fishes inspired by a Tsukiji Box of market fish.
Hopscotch, 1915 San Pablo Ave, Oakland, hopscotchoakland.com.

click to enlarge TRESTLE
  • Trestle
Truffles at Trestle
Trestle, the North Beach restaurant that somehow puts out exceptional three-course meals for only $35, is offering a $20 truffle add-on in December. Get some shaved mushrooms on Chef Jason Halverson's Ricotta Gnuddi with poached egg and brown butter emulsion.
Trestle, 531 Jackson, 415-772-0922 or trestlesf.com.

Mad About Ibérico
Chinese and Spanish cuisines have a connection, and that connection is pork. So it's not entirely surprising that China has quickly fallen in love with jamon ibérico, according to the New York Times. It's a superbly written story, with a nice, digressive bit about the terroir of southwestern Spain and why it's crucial to ham production: "Jabugo has some of Spain’s heaviest rainfalls, resulting in a damp winter climate that helps spread the salt into the meat as it is cured, using a method dating to Roman times. The hot summer months, in contrast, favor the so-called sweating and drying of the ham."

What Would Jesus Drink?
We know the answer: wine. But while it was probably stored in goatskins, we don't know much else about what the Jewish liberal who many people worship as a god drank at the Last Supper or the Wedding at Cana. According to Food and Wine, Israeli scientists, using grapes unearthed in archaeological excavations, want to recreate wine from biblical times, like a cloned woolly mammoth that gets you wasted.

America Is No Longer No. 1!
In soda consumption, that is. According to Quartz, the U.S., with 160 calories a day per capita consumed from sugary drinks, has fallen into third place, behind Chile (190 calories per person per day) and Mexico. Hurray!



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About The Author

Peter Lawrence Kane

Bio:
Peter Lawrence Kane is SF Weekly's Arts Editor. He has lived in San Francisco since 2008 and is two-thirds the way toward his goal of visiting all 59 national parks.

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