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Tuesday, November 17, 2015

Purple Pickled Eggs at 1300 on Fillmore

Posted By on Tue, Nov 17, 2015 at 5:16 PM

click to enlarge Hoppin' John Crispy Pig Ear - KATHERINE WILLIAMS
  • Katherine Williams
  • Hoppin' John Crispy Pig Ear

A recent change in the kitchen staff at 1300 on Fillmore has resulted in some interesting additions to its Low Country-inspired menu of artfully plated dishes. Later this year, founding chef David Lawrence will be leaving the kitchen of 1300 on Fillmore to open Black Bark, lthe FIllmore's first barbecue joint since 2000. He'll be leaving 1300's kitchen in the hands of the new Chef de Cuisine, Jake Whitlock (of Ichi Sushi).

click to enlarge Purple Pickled Eggs - KATHERINE WILLIAMS
  • Katherine Williams
  • Purple Pickled Eggs

Whitlock's experience with modern French techniques and study of Southern cooking has resulted in some inventive intersections and novel noshes, such as the "Hoppin' John" crispy pig ear served with beans and rice under a fried egg and the creamed red cabbage served with persimmon and dusted with bee pollen and lemon chili. What really caught my eye, though, were Whitlock's purple pickled eggs.

Served on a long narrow plate, the four fuchsia semi-spheres look more like like a center piece than an hors devours. But make no mistake, these colored eggs were meant to be eaten. Each hollowed hard-boiled egg white serves as a pliable vessel for creamy whipped goat cheese. Tiny spicy mustard seeds provide a bold hint of flavor that pays homage to a traditional picnic-style deviled egg, while a small spear of pickled okra and a thin slice of candy cane beet add texture, crunch and subtle acidic notes. I was surprised by how light the eggs were, despite being filled with goat cheese, and could have popped back quite a few if an entree wasn't close behind.

If Whitlock's purple pickled eggs are any indication of what's yet to come from his kitchen, Lawrence and the rest of us can rest assured that 1300 on Fillmore is being left in good hands. My expectations for hard-boiled eggs may never be the same.

1300 on Fillmore: 1300 Fillmore, 415-771-7100

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A. K. Carroll


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