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The San Francisco restaurant scene is changing faster than you can say “mouthfeel,” but that hasn’t hindered one of the greatest old-school restaurants in this city.
Sears Fine Food, a local institution since 1938, sits smack in the heart of San Francisco’s tourist center with a menu unchanged since it came to the market. Let me explain why this Union Square restaurant is a must try for any tourist or townie.
Walking in feels like entering your parents' friends living room, with family photos decorating the walls, gallery-style. The sense of San Francisco-specific nostalgia is palpable, but that doesn’t mean the menu (prices included) isn’t perfectly competitive with other newer restaurants, and frankly their upbeat servers are among the best.
I visited this past weekend, and was quickly reminded that not every exceptional brunch makes you pass through the gauntlet of a two-hour wait in order to eat. Any potential grumpiness was diminished when we were immediately seated and handed our menus by an authentically-happy-to-see-us server named Sarah.
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Ali Wunderman
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Tiny pancakes, or giant lemon wedge? You decide.
Despite its close proximity to the big hotels, and its corresponding popularity among tourists, it seems there’s always a good amount of locals finding their way among the hubbub to order up Sears’ famous Swedish pancakes ($10.95). This was proven when, after ordering my own Swedish pancakes (with lingonberries, get the lingonberries), the table next to me was seated with neighbors of mine who live no more than five houses down from my own. A reminder that if you know where to go, San Francisco is in many ways a small town.
The food itself is reliably delectable, and Tony Bennett even called it “the best in town!” The menu boasts local favorites like
Boudin sourdough,
deviled eggs, a
Shrimp Louie, and of course
crab chowder, all for prices so low you’ll question whether or not you’re getting scammed (you’re not).
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Sear’s has kept its old school cool by being unrelentingly genuine, a characterization validated by the final interaction prior to departing. Servers end your meal by handing you both a check and a token, the latter of which is used to play a slot machine near the front of the restaurant. This timeless tradition awards diners a range of prizes, the guaranteed of which is a smile on your face, because who doesn’t get excited by casual gambling?
Sear's Fine Food,
439 Powell, 415-986-0700.
