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Wednesday, July 22, 2015

Beery Cocktails and Charcuterie: Belga Rolls Out Brunch

Posted By on Wed, Jul 22, 2015 at 6:00 PM

click to enlarge DECLAN MCKERR
  • Declan Mckerr

, the mostly-but-not-entirely Belgian restaurant that I ate at twice this month and absolutely adored, is forging a path  into brunchy terrain. While the main dinner draw is its superlative beer selection, and brunch beer is still something of a taboo, there’s a lot to recommend here. High praise to any restaurant that places pork schnitzel with braised cabbage, spätzle, and eggs under the category “lighter side"!

click to enlarge DECLAN MCKERR
  • Declan Mckerr

click to enlarge DECLAN MCKERR
  • Declan Mckerr
Apart from brioche beignets and Belgian waffles, things immediately go straight into the meatier side of life. A charcuterie board (country pâté, porc roulee, liverwurst, smoked ham, saucisson sec, jardinière, mustard, and fruit compote) borders on a German Früstück, while oysters on the half shell and the dry-roasted mussels that I loved so much ground things firmly in le mer. And there’s a sausage board on top of that!

A “Belga breakfast” (two eggs, grilled toast, potatoes, and a choice of sausage or bacon) will keep anyone who just wants a good old American hungry-man breakfast happy, while chicken confit hash with chard, sunny side up eggs and a petit greens salad will do right by adventurers.

In the cocktail arena, beyond the Bloody Mary and the Herbert West (vodka, grapefruit, lime, elderflower, Cynar), there's are some beery beverages after all. a daring Depth Charge (cold-brewed coffee, aged rum, cream, Allagash Black, Demerara, and cinnamon) and a "Gose-Mosa" of Anderson Valley Gose beer, watermelon, orange, and paprika salt. If you have a Level 5 Hangover, coffee and greasy things may not cut it.

As a semi-related musing, beer-based cocktails that whet people’s appetites at 1 p.m. on a Saturday should really be more commonplace. TSK / TSK’s Radler Stiegl-based McBain could be another good point of origin, its grapefruit component functioning as peach nectar would in a Bellini. I mean, you know you’re gong to transition into an afternoon of day-drinking half the time, anyway, so you might as well start it off all classy.

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About The Author

Peter Lawrence Kane

Peter Lawrence Kane is SF Weekly's Arts Editor. He has lived in San Francisco since 2008 and is two-thirds the way toward his goal of visiting all 59 national parks.


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