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Friday, May 22, 2015

Treat Yourself to Some Incredible Panna Cotta at Acquolina

Posted By on Fri, May 22, 2015 at 1:38 PM

click to enlarge PETER LAWRENCE KANE
  • Peter Lawrence Kane

There is a new Italian restaurant in the least surprising of neighborhoods. With its wood, tile and communal table, Acquolina, just off of Columbus Ave. in North Beach, looks more like an industrial-lite café on Divis than the tricolore-festooned pasta houses all around it. And it already has a reputation for panna cotta.

click to enlarge PETER LAWRENCE KANE
  • Peter Lawrence Kane

At $7, and available drizzled with chocolate or slathered in seasonal fruit, it’s made in-house and definitely making somebody’s nonna very proud. (Possibly the most ethereal Italian dessert, panna cotta can be a little confusing. It means “cooked cream,” but it’s really heated only enough to make sure the gelatin dissolves into the sugar.)

Sadly, Acquolina’s smoked-salmon-and-avocado focaccia sandwich tasted as if it had been in the refrigerator for a good long while, and the Margherita pizza wasn’t the greatest, either. Neither the crust nor the sauce was particularly notable, and with Tony’s Pizza Napoletana right across the street, it’s not as if superior alternatives aren’t readily available. But the panna cotta alone is worth the visit to North Beach. A two-stop, slice-and-dessert date would be a fine idea this weekend.

Acquolina, 1600 Stockton, 415-781-0331.


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About The Author

Peter Lawrence Kane

Bio:
Peter Lawrence Kane is SF Weekly's Arts Editor. He has lived in San Francisco since 2008 and is two-thirds the way toward his goal of visiting all 59 national parks.

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