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Thursday, May 21, 2015

Tacorgasmico Is Legit Mexico City Street Food

Posted By on Thu, May 21, 2015 at 8:00 AM

click to enlarge Cochinita pibil and rayas tacos - PETER LAWRENCE KANE
  • Peter Lawrence Kane
  • Cochinita pibil and rayas tacos

There are lots of skulls to be found in Tacorgasmico, now open serving Mexico City street food with a bunch of Yucatán influences. The former Blue space on Market Street is now the fourth casual Mexican restaurant in the Castro (the others being Tacos Club, Chilango, Zapata’s, and La Tortilla, plus HECHO as their upscale sibling). We can never have too many, really. Nor can we have too many skulls. One of Tacorgasico’s is riding a bike whose wheels are lime slices, another is carrying a jug of pulque and wearing a hat labeled “El Jefe” (“the boss”).

Remember how one of the aforementioned restaurants got in big trouble by referring to its menu, probably out of self-deprecation, as “white people food”? This isn’t nearly as gringo-oriented. Having just spent a week in Mexico City, it looks to this gringo like Tacorgasmico could easily be in La Condesa or Coyoacan without offending any locals’ sensitivities.

But don’t take my word for it; check the menu, which is full of pollo and cochinita pibil, panuchos, tlayudas (oversized Oaxacan crispy tortillas), and a Mission-style super burrito for $8.50. Among the taco options, rajas (sliced poblano peppers in cream) aren’t too common around these parts. The only places I could think of that have them are the underrated Azúcar Lounge in SoMa and the TRES taco truck (although Google University says Pepe’s, also in SoMa, sells them).

Since we already have Pizza Orgasmica (three of the four of them, in fact), it’s only fair to note that, although Tacorgasmico’s name might not be the cleverest thing out there, it’s grounded in a tradition of Mexican street food wordplay. There’s Tacolicious, plus the taqueria that I went to no fewer than five times last week in D.F.’s Zona Rosa is called Tacontento (“happy taco”). If any or all of those make you groan, nothing is worse than the litany of sins against wordplay that is @tocopuns. Compared to that, the word “Tacorgasmico” is divine. But the cochinita pibil is fantastic in its own right. This might be the best Mexican food in the Castro.

Tacorgasmico, 2337 Market, 415-565-0655.

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About The Author

Peter Lawrence Kane

Peter Lawrence Kane is SF Weekly's Arts Editor. He has lived in San Francisco since 2008 and is two-thirds the way toward his goal of visiting all 59 national parks.


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