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Monday, May 18, 2015

Kronnerburger Opens in Oakland, Bringing Burger Options to 697,350

Posted By on Mon, May 18, 2015 at 2:00 PM

GILT CITY
  • Gilt City
When you’ve just paid over $75 bucks for burgers, fries and beer for two, you know you’ve just eaten at KronnerBurger. To be fair, it wasn’t ordinary beer — it was a 750ml bottle of Saison Dupont. And the "fries" were actually poutine — crisp and slathered with cheese curds and a thyme-heavy beef cheek gravy. Also, one of us tends to be a bit of an over-generous tipper, especially for counter service. Lastly, the burgers — well, with this much build-up for a burger that until recently was only made on the other side of the Bay and, was it worth all that? We’re still asking ourselves that very question.

When we first walked in, there was a bottleneck, as eager diners tried to figure out where to stand. The fact that there’s a stand-up counter smack in the middle of the place where the line gathers doesn’t create a great first impression.

But we were soon greeted by a surprisingly-well-dressed-for-a-burger-joint-hostess, who provided us with menus. The line moved quickly and before we knew it we were ordering and being given guidance on our choices. For example, as everyone who reads blogs like this knows by now, pimento cheese and bone marrow are add-ons at KronnerBurger. It's a social atmosphere, where you can observe fellow diners order salads and get a slight case of order envy.

Our poutine came quickly, and we ate it while furtively eyeing each booth, scanning the restaurant for signs of other patrons departing, because when you pay that kind of money, do you really want to stand to eat your burger? We weren’t quick enough to seize a booth for ourselves, but were able to get a seat at the large communal table in the back corner, along with a family of three and another couple. While it could probably accommodate up to 10 people, its weird shape means a lot of shimmying in and out for those who sit on the ends to let them in.

Then our burgers arrived. The “yuba [tofu skin] bacon” add-on to the earthburger was the highlight, as it was crispy and flavorful, a fun and different accoutrement. That earthburger had a real depth of flavor, much more so than most meatless burgers, with mushroom being the predominant taste. It was savory and rich, although our one critique was that the texture was just a wee bit on the mushy side. Still, the flavor may have been the best veggie burger we’ve ever had.

And as for the eponymous KronnerBurger, it was what one would hope from a bone marrow-soaked pimento cheeseburger. All of the flavors were in excellent balance, we could definitely taste the char against the rare meat, and the marrow added a distinct richness. We also appreciated the individual marrow pieces served on the side, though one was over-seasoned. Despite not being the biggest burgers ever, we were too full for dessert, and left feeling sated. 

Welcome to Oakland at long last, KronnerBurger!

KronnerBurger, 4063 Piedmont Ave., Oakland.



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About The Author

Alix Wall

Alix Wall

Bio:
Alix Wall is an Oakland-based freelance writer and certified natural foods chef. Her web site is theorganicepicure.com

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