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Trevor Felch
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The Pulled Pork and Burger Sliders at the Devil's Slide Tap Room in Pacifica
As if we need more proof that the craft beer movement is sweeping through the Bay Area, now one of the most remote areas of the Peninsula has a brewery in which was previously a black hole in this hops-saturated region. And those in Pacifica will also have their hunger satiated thanks to bites that don’t let the brews get all the attention.
Devil’s Slide Tap Room in Pacifica’s Pedro Point Shopping Center is right by
the world’s greatest Taco Bell, the state beach, and is literally the first turn after or last turn before entering the Devil’s Slide Highway One tunnels. It’s only six months old and thoroughly a family-run operation with husband and wife team Shane and Theresa Nolen at the helm and then a connect-the-dots style list of parents, siblings and in-laws involved in business and bartending duties. Let’s just say Devil’s Slide Tap Room is not Toronado in atmosphere. It’s a family-friendly craft beer bar with good wholesome eats, where the beer geeks nerd out on Altamont Beer Works’ Mac Drizzle Dub Red IPA and the kids can have a grilled cheese on Texas toast with both cheddar and Monterey Jack. Everybody will be content, with or without something from the 29 taps. I can only imagine how popular this place is with the after-surf crowd.
You can’t call the establishment a “gastropub.” There is no boundary pushing. However, the "gastro" part does sine through with a beautiful rendition of a caprese salad and everything is made in-house from the sausages to the blue cheese dressing to the pickles. Devil’s Slide Taproom’s menu of solid casual fare from high quality ingredients is what you want while watching March Madness and to soak up the blistering spice from the bottle of Habañero Sculpin IPA. The staff doesn’t inundate diners with the heritage breed of chicken and the farm for the burger’s lettuce, though you could quickly find out though if that is really a necessity.
Along with the fish and chips and the fried chicken sandwich with ginger savoy coleslaw and cilantro pesto, the headliners from chef Steve Moran are the Taproom Burger and the pulled pork sandwich. Fortunately, because nobody wants to choose between the two if you’re not sharing, the burger and the pulled pork come in slider form at roughly 40 percent to half the size of the originals ($5 per slider).
Moran’s burger starts with 100 percent Angus meat and gets charbroiled. Then a pair of accompaniments partner with the meat, lettuce, and tomato: a homemade Thousand Island dressing and a slow-roasted onion and butter marmalade where the butter continually bastes the burger even after being brought to the table. As a 44 year veteran (!) of the restaurant industry, Moran’s got some tricks up his sleeve. In the world of burgers, this is one half In-n-Out and one half Father’s Office (home of Los Angeles’ beloved burger with a bacon-onion marmalade). Not a bad duo for a little slider. Meanwhile, the pulled pork gets rubbed with spices then smoked in the oven for five hours before marinating overnight with homemade barbecue sauce. Only a quick assembly then is required with the refreshing cole slaw countering the morsels of pork, all slathered in that beautiful sauce that veers more towards vinegar and spice than sweetness.
There’s no need for a game to watch or trip to the beach to make the journey to Pacifica’s new gathering spot. But after the beautiful yet nerve-racking drive north along Highway One and you see the light at the end of the tunnel, yes, you certainly deserve some sliders and a good beer.
5560 Pacific Coast Hwy, Pacifica; (650) 898-8855.