Copenhagen has been one of the trendy “hot” spots for globe-trotting eaters ever since René Redzepi’s temple to “New Nordic” cuisine, Noma, snagged the “best restaurant in the world” honors from the vaunted El Bulli in 2010. But the Danes don’t just eat foraged sea buckthorn soil and live North Sea langoustines with reindeer moss. When the clock strikes noon, just like many Americans do, Danes enjoy a nice, basic sandwich for lunch. Except, that’s an open-faced sandwich they’re enjoying at home or work in Denmark.

And at the over three-decade-old Copenhagen Bakery and Café in Burlingame, lunch as the Danes do with traditional open-faced sandwiches known as smørrebrød. Even the humble smørrebrød in San Francisco has received some New Nordic treatment with the weekend brunch versions at Bar Tartine that are absolute visual masterpieces. Copenhagen Bakery though doesn’t go for the art points, judging by the sliced cucumbers and tomatoes providing the most vivid color of the plate. Rather, they serve a faithful, classic lunch just like you’d enjoy at cafés around the namesake city’s many canals.

The base for each smørrebrød is Danish pumpernickel bread with a low-key rye undertone and a sturdy texture that is ideal for holding toppings and neither crunchy or spongy like many sandwich breads we’re used to (as you’d expect, the bread is baked by Copenhagen). To enjoy the smørrebrød, diners order “The King’s Plate” ($13.95) that truly is fit for a roy a — the three small slices of bread are each crowned with your choice of topping or spread, plus a side salad (and the name for The King’s Plate actually comes from the Danish monarchy as the Crown Prince Frederick would often visit in the 1980s while studying at a Napa winery).

Two mandatory selections for making the lunch truly regal are slightly off-beat, but essential for the Scandinavian experience, cured herring and Danish liver paste (Now, doesn’t that sound tempting?). The herring boasts a pleasing vinegar acidity to contrast the fishy notes that aren’t remotely as strong as you’d encounter with the likes of anchovies. It plays perfectly with almost sugary-sweet sliced cucumbers as a garnish. Meanwhile the liverpaste really is like a more mousse-like pâté sporting a fun earthiness blended with the nudge of funk that liver is so good at providing. Topped with some marinated red cabbage, this would be an ideal holiday party shared hors d’oeuvre.

To close out the trio, opt for another Scandinavian selection by way of New York delis: the smoked salmon with cream cheese that has enough smoked salmon to fill an entire bagel. This, you wish, is how all sandwiches were composed. Denmark got it right (especially compared to that English Earl of Sandwich).

I’m guessing that the Danes enjoy their smørrebrød in a stationary setting; try packing these open-faced guys to-go. Not a good idea. But if necessary, regular sandwiches are available as are soups and a what-are-you-doing-here menu item: a Chinese chicken salad. Breakfast is headlined by Danish pancakes with lingonberry jam while dinner can be, among many choices, a burger, pasta or hearty frikadeller (Danish meatballs in gravy with boiled potatoes and red cabbage).

No matter what time of day, save room for dessert and spend a minute perusing the overwhelming selection of nearly 50 types of cookies, breads, pastries, and more. I’d suggest you start with the apricot hamentashen, follow with the pain au chocolat-evoking chocolate chip coffee cake and finish with the Danish favorite glazed marzipan cookie, kransekage.

Copenhagen itself, is a large, somewhat hectic operation spread over three rooms with the bakery, a soda fountain for ice cream (nobody was there on my rainy day visit this week) and the café where you order at the counter and food is brought to your table. The design is much more homey and rustic countryside in atmosphere than a sleek, spare-style often thought of as Scandinavian. You expect to see cows out the window instead of downtown Burlingame’s squeaky clean re-modeled main strip (Burlingame Avenue also has a lot fewer bikes than there would be on a main Copenhagen street).

The smørrebrod though at Burlingame’s Copenhagen would be right at home in the real Copenhagen. Now you’ll always want your sandwiches served open-faced and will be willing to give liverpaste a chance.

1216 Burlingame Ave., Burlingame; (650) 342-1357