Trevor Felch
Trattoria da Vittorio's Pumpkin Gnocchi
Fall is in the air, tomato season is over, and orange and black is everywhere. It's definitely time to eat some pumpkin.
Which means it's time to venture out to West Portal, a corner of the city known more for being the urban suburb on the other side of the Muni tunnel than destination-worthy dining options, where you’ll be rewarded both with a terrific pumpkin gnocchi and a quick trip to Southern Italy’s Calabrian region (the “toe” of the boot).
Trattoria da Vittorio makes its own pumpkin gnocchi ($16) from scratch, actually mixing pumpkin puree into the potato base creating small pebble-sized pops of autumn that speak strongly of diligent pasta-making. Each gnocchi is feathery light with a sturdy doughy texture, similar to a cookie fresh out of the oven. There’s none of that gummy consistency gnocchi unfortunately possesses frequently. Da Vittorio also has the potato to flour-to-pumpkin ratios down. Frankly, I wouldn’t be surprised if the pumpkin purée addition actually helps keep the gnocchi softer than normal.
Diced butternut squash, pumpkin’s close sibling, is scattered amongst the gnocchi. A butter and sage sauce lightly coats the plate. By no means is the dish too buttery: It’s a light coating of browned butter that adds a welcoming sweetness and moisture to each gnocchi. Amidst the diced butternut squash, the restrained scattering of sage leaves was too conservative. I wanted more because a bite of gnocchi, butternut squash and sage hit the highest autumnal chords head on, like a crisp wind blowing red leaves in your face. A final spritz of cracked pepper from the server adds a pleasant edge for a tableside finish.
Recently, Da Vittorio has continued the autumnal spirit with off and on specials of butternut squash soup and pumpkin risotto to accompany the gnocchi. At its Calabrian heart regardless of the season, Da Vittorio is a truly Italian spot with friendly waiters boasting strong Italian accents and menu opinions, ample good quality rustic Italian red wines at solid prices, powerful espresso, and menu hits like a top flight caprese with creamy burrata or the roster of pastas made in-house.
You also can’t help but notice the prominent pizza oven outside the open kitchen. Order a nicely charred seasonal vegetable pie with the pumpkin gnocchi — it's a definite candidate for the leading under-the-radar pizzeria in this pizza-loving city.
Every week is pizza week but at this moment it’s the week of Halloween. Before carving that pumpkin to greet trick-or-treaters, enjoy autumn via Calabria with pumpkin gnocchi.
150 West Portal; 742-0300.