Get SF Weekly Newsletters

Tuesday, August 19, 2014

A Turkish Dish Goes Vegetarian at Troya

Posted By on Tue, Aug 19, 2014 at 8:01 AM

click to enlarge JULIE KRAMER
  • Julie Kramer
Troya on Fillmore is the kind of place that makes you feel instantly welcome. Walk into the long, warmly-lit space – formerly occupied by Citizen Cake and, before that, neighborhood fixture Vivande Porta Via – and you’ll be welcomed by a host who seems genuinely glad you stopped in. There is a bar to one side, and on the other, simple wood tables; it is elegant without being fancy. The food, described as Turkish-inspired Mediterranean, is divided into mezes, Anatolian flatbreads, kebabs and larger plates.

It’s easy to make a meal of several small plates: warmed olives, beautiful salads made with local and seasonal ingredients, a trio of dips with Turkish bread. The latter, by the way, is not to be missed: it consists of hummus, haydari (thick garlic flavored with yogurt and herbs), and muhammara (a smoky-sweet puree of red peppers, walnuts, olive oil and spices).

click to enlarge JULIE KRAMER
  • Julie Kramer
Right now, there is also a large plate that is perfect for sharing. Beyti is a Turkish dish that’s traditionally made with grilled lamb wrapped in lavash and topped with savory sauces. In a vegetarian-friendly twist, Troya’s Fillmore location offers a cauliflower beyti that is both beautifully presented and satisfying. Purple, orange and white cauliflower are roasted with olive oil, coriander seed and salt; the cauliflower is then given a quick fry with some potatoes to add a crisp texture.

The vegetables are rolled up in spinach lavash with fennel and onion pickles, arugula and a dill-mint yogurt sauce. A not-too-spicy tomato sauce, roasted garlic yogurt, paprika and parsley top the beyti, which is sliced into six pieces. Arranged with each piece standing on end, this is an impressive-looking entree, and one that has multiple layers of flavor.

If you’d prefer to have beyti with lamb, Troya on Clement will oblige, but you’d be missing a really special, creative take on the dish. Truly, this is food that delights both visually and gastronomically; add in the welcoming vibe and you’re bound to be a happy – and perhaps regular – customer.

Troya. 2125 Fillmore, 563-1000.
  • Pin It

About The Author

Julie Kramer

Julie Kramer

Location Info


Comments are closed.

Popular Stories

  1. Most Popular Stories
  2. Stories You Missed

Like us on Facebook


  • clipping at Brava Theater Sept. 11
    Sub Pop recording artists 'clipping.' brought their brand of noise-driven experimental hip hop to the closing night of 2016's San Francisco Electronic Music Fest this past Sunday. The packed Brava Theater hosted an initially seated crowd that ended the night jumping and dancing against the front of the stage. The trio performed a set focused on their recently released Sci-Fi Horror concept album, 'Splendor & Misery', then delved into their dancier and more aggressive back catalogue, and recent single 'Wriggle'. Opening performances included local experimental electronic duo 'Tujurikkuja' and computer music artist 'Madalyn Merkey.'"