Get SF Weekly Newsletters

Friday, July 11, 2014

1058 Hoagie Reopens as Rye Project, Serving Sandwiches That Are Anything But Boring

Posted By on Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 4:05 PM

click to enlarge The Rye Project's fish platter and Romanian pastrami sandwich. - ANNA ROTH
  • Anna Roth
  • The Rye Project's fish platter and Romanian pastrami sandwich.

SOMA lunchers, take note: The nabe has another worthy sandwich shop. Proprietor Adam Mesnick, also of the Deli Board, changed up the concept of his SOMA 1058 Hoagie sandwich shop earlier this week. The new Rye Project, named after Mesnick's pop-up, features a whittled-down new menu focusing on a few sandwiches served on rye or a Kaiser roll, as well as smoked fish on a platter or on a bagel.

The thinly sliced Romanian pastrami ($14) is a mess of a sandwich in the best possible way. Its meat has a wonderfully dark, smoky appearance and comes dripping with grease, though not so much that it overwhelms the sandwich or the stomach. There's sauce on the side, but you don't need it -- the unadulterated meat, between two thin slices of rye, is enough to make a total experience, especially when you alternate the rich bites with nibbles of the accompanying semi-sour pickle.

"Adam's Bonanza" platter is a deal at $26: generous portions three kinds of fish (smoked salmon, smoked trout, and whitefish salad), two bagels, a tuft of alfalfa sprouts, some perfectly ripe red tomatoes, pickled peppers, pickled onions, cucumber slices, hardboiled egg, and more so you can choose your own bagel adventure. The most surprising thing on the platter was also the best, a slightly spicy salmon cream cheese that Mesnik makes with lox ends and some Thai chiles.

There are a few tables in the small shop, underneath giant photographs of deli food icons, but about half the crowd seemed to take sandwiches and the large-format salads to go, presumably for a desk-side sandwich lunch.

This sandwich shop and I have a history. Its former incarnation, sub shop 1058 Hoagie, was the cause of a minor kerfuffle between Mesnick and myself a few years ago when I called a few of his sandwiches "boring" in a review. This new iteration lives up to all the promise of the Deli Board's best sandwiches, which won SF Weekly's Best Excuse to Take a Nap Under Your Desk award in our 2013 Best Of issue. And after lunch at the Rye Project, "boring" never even crossed my mind.

  • Pin It

About The Author

Anna Roth

Anna Roth

Anna Roth is SF Weekly's former Food & Drink Editor and author of West Coast Road Eats: The Best Road Food From San Diego to the Canadian Border.


Comments are closed.

Popular Stories

  1. Most Popular Stories
  2. Stories You Missed

Like us on Facebook


  • clipping at Brava Theater Sept. 11
    Sub Pop recording artists 'clipping.' brought their brand of noise-driven experimental hip hop to the closing night of 2016's San Francisco Electronic Music Fest this past Sunday. The packed Brava Theater hosted an initially seated crowd that ended the night jumping and dancing against the front of the stage. The trio performed a set focused on their recently released Sci-Fi Horror concept album, 'Splendor & Misery', then delved into their dancier and more aggressive back catalogue, and recent single 'Wriggle'. Opening performances included local experimental electronic duo 'Tujurikkuja' and computer music artist 'Madalyn Merkey.'"