Menlo Park's new Borrone Market Bar already has perfected two of cooking and baking's hardest subjects: scallops and focaccia. The former requires such precise timing to achieve that coveted perfect seared state. The latter? Well, few, if even a dozen bakeries and restaurants around the Bay Area even attempt to bake from scratch one of the most demanding breads around.
Here, the massive, plump scallops ($24) find that tricky balance of being crisp and almost sweet on the exterior and tender and moist in the center. The tops and bottoms are heavily caramelized, a perfect seafood tan that avoids being charred. Slivered cherry tomatoes provide needed brightness and candied almonds lend the texture contrast. Scallops love to be paired with soft cushions to become comfort food dishes. Here, that partner is celery root puree, an unheralded side that provides all the pleasures of mashed potatoes with far more character. Finally, about a pound of caramelized cauliflowers finish the creation, imitating the scallops' look and cooking method.
It's a dish of beautiful flavors that doesn't tread exotic new ground but certainly hasn't grown tired. The presentation itself is a bit less noteworthy -- that happens when you have white on white on white on a white plate.
Borrone MarketBar's menu changes daily but hopefully the scallops become a staple. A list of roughly a dozen starters and freshly made pastas and three larger "Caught On The Line Or Raised On The Ranch" dishes round out the menu.
The MarketBar is still sorting out the expected awkwardness of being both take-out and sit down restaurant (are you ordering to-go in a restaurant or having a relaxed dinner in a shop?). However, one item has already become a signature staple for both dine-in and take out and is well worth a long drive from S.F. That's the focaccia bread, painstakingly made in-house and available to go by the slab ($6.75) or as the opening bread plate.
Chef Josh Pebbles, also in charge of the food at Café Borrone, right now offers a traditional version dusted with sage and sea salt alongside one slathered with a tomato sauce and garnished with green onions. This isn't your usual dense, olive oil-sodden focaccia. It's fluffy and light with distinct sour notes. The crust isn't quite as crisp as the vaunted versions at San Francisco's Liguria Bakery but does add a pleasant crunch. I prefer the focaccia toppings-free. However, the gentle-handed touch of the tomato sauce provided a good argument for pizzas being better when free of cheese.
And then for the best bite of the evening, paired with a refreshing Negroni (made with vodka instead of gin!), you dip that focaccia into the scallop's celery root purée. Take my advice, It's the best of both worlds.
1010 El Camino Real, Menlo Park; (650) 600-8095.
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