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Friday, March 28, 2014

San Francisco Fried Chicken Company: Even More Hot Thighs in North Beach

Posted By on Fri, Mar 28, 2014 at 11:00 AM

PETE KANE
  • Pete Kane

In some circles, there's probably no more damning thing you can say about a restaurant than "it's kinda for tourists," but besides being a shrewd business move more often than not, sometimes it's just a fact. The San Francisco Fried Chicken Company on Columbus Avenue in North Beach fries a mean chicken thigh but is otherwise out of step with the artisanal fussiness wave, and that's OK. Add in the location and it's clear they're not aiming for people who tweet every meal.

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You order wings piecemeal, and unlike a lot of other wing spots, the poultry parts are gigantic (as well as perfectly seasoned without being too salty, and not super-messy, either). A quarter-leg is $6, but it was not available when I visited, but a wing, a thigh, and a breast proved sufficient. The sides are slightly questionable: gravy ($2) that a lunch companion thought was store-bought, and green beans ($3) that definitely seemed like they were. It's a fledgling business -- pun partly intended -- and the earnest "How is everything?" question revealed an openness to feedback. So it's possible that things might ratchet up, but the fundamentals are in place: the chicken is very large and very good. Anyplace where you can gorge for under ten bucks is going to do all right.

PETE KANE
  • Pete Kane

PETE KANE
  • Pete Kane

The interior is on the sterile side, although there's plenty of seating upstairs. And SF Fried Chicken Company is open late -- really late, until 2:30 in the morning -- long after most out-of-towners have gone to bed and the last wave of girlie-bar patrons is looking for something to eat. Business should boom.

San Francisco Fried Chicken Company, 362 Columbus, 989-5443.

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About The Author

Pete Kane

Pete Kane

Bio:
Pete Kane is a total gaylord who is trying to get to every national park before age 40

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