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Friday, July 12, 2013

Drink of the Week: Getting Stone Fruit Happy at BUILD Pizzeria

Posted By on Fri, Jul 12, 2013 at 2:45 PM

  • Lou Bustamante

Walking into BUILD Pizzeria you will be presented with your first choice. Sit in the bright spacious restaurant side or the darker bar side? If you can't decide, then think about what kind of experience you're looking for: if you want a quick bite and drink before you catch a show, go to the restaurant side. If you want to unwind and relax for a minute or catch the game on the big screens (and more importantly want to enjoy some great cocktails), head for the bar.

Led by bar manager Jay Crabb who worked extensively with consulting barman Scott Beattie, the menu and drinks reflect both of their influences. The hand-cut ice, edible flowers, and unique produce is very clearly Beattie, where some of the creative combinations and use of exotic spirits is very much Crabb. Both of these talents mesh into the Apricot-Plum Pisco Sour ($11, Encatnto Pisco, Jelinek Slivovitz Plum Brandy, apricot liqueur, lime, egg white, bitters) a playful and delicious twist on the classic pisco drink.

See also: Drink of the Week: Seduced by the Moroccan Cosmopolitan at OneUp

Drink of the Week: Cucumber Collins at Goose & Gander

Drink of the Week: Nee-Guy Spritz at Ramen Shop

Starting off with a basic Pisco sour, Crabb began experimenting with the spirits, first trying aged cognac style brandies, but wasn't getting something he loved. "I came across Slvovitz -- a plum brandy produced throughout Central Europe -- I knew I was on to something," says Crabb. "Splitting the base spirit between Pisco and Slivovitz created a complex and exciting layering of flavors."

The Drunk Monk with its friar like ice dome peeking out of the glass - LOU BUSTAMANTE
  • Lou Bustamante
  • The Drunk Monk with its friar like ice dome peeking out of the glass

The spirit-driven drinks section is where the large format ice comes in, like in the Drunk Monk ($10.50, rye whiskey, vermouth, Benedictine, absinthe, bitters), and it feels appropriately solid and strong.

click to enlarge Bar manager Jay Crabb - LOU BUSTAMANTE
  • Lou Bustamante
  • Bar manager Jay Crabb

The bar is very much in Crabb's care, but Beattie's influence will remain in the drinks. Sitting at the bar with Crabb working behind it, the care and service oriented manner is another part of what makes him so great. And no he's not new, he's just been working his way along the Peninsula and East Bay at places like Bocanova and the Walnut Creek Yacht Club. "It was while in Walnut Creek that my eyes were really opened," he says. With a kitchen program that flowed and influenced the bar, the drink menu included house-made ingredients, fresh vegetable juices, aged cocktails, and anything else they could dream up.

What's best is that even if you're not a cocktail geek, you will enjoy the drinks. But if you are, you might find yourself in downtown Berkeley a lot more often.

Apricot-Plum Pisco Sour

1 oz. Encanto Pisco

½ oz. Jelinek Slivovitz Plum Brandy

¾ oz. Rothman & Winters Orchard Apricot Liqueur

½ oz. Simple syrup

1 oz. Fresh lime juice

¼ oz. Egg white

Combine all ingredients in a shaker without ice and dry shake (shake without ice) for 30 seconds. Add ice and shake again, then double strain into frozen coupe glass.

Garnish the drink with four drops of aromatic house bitters and 3 edible flower leaves placed into foamy surface of the drink.

BUILD Pizzeria Roma, 2286 Shattuck (at Bancroft), Berkeley, 510-898-1839

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