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Monday, June 24, 2013

Get Up Early For Pulled Pork Benedict, 'Tenderloin Elvis' French Toast at Fused

Posted By on Mon, Jun 24, 2013 at 9:35 AM

Pulled-pork benedict at Fused. - PETE KANE
  • Pete Kane
  • Pulled-pork benedict at Fused.

All too often, "Asian-fusion" reminds people of some deafening restaurant from the 90s where nobody ate anything because they were all doing blow in the bathroom. Fused, Chef Christopher Williams' new weekend morning pop-up at the House of Thai in the Tenderloin, couldn't be more different. When you come here, you're going to eat.

See also: Pop-up Report: Sneaky's BBQ at Vinyl Coffee & Wine Bar

Lunchpad: Adventurous Sandwiches And Candied Bacon In Hayes Valley

Sweet and savory combine in the Tenderloin Elvis at Fused. - PETE KANE
  • Pete Kane
  • Sweet and savory combine in the Tenderloin Elvis at Fused.

Protein-heavy classics -- steak and eggs, biscuits & gravy -- share menu space with some inventive offerings, such as the Tenderloin Elvis (French toast, peanut butter, preserves, maple syrup and fried bananas) and a BBQ Benedict (pulled pork, a house-made cheddar-chive biscuit, chipotle hollandaise and a side option of polenta). Both are excellent, and you might want to share plates, since Elvis happens to be a seriously delicious carb bomb.

Ketchup fried rice at Fused in the Tenderloin. - PETE KANE
  • Pete Kane
  • Ketchup fried rice at Fused in the Tenderloin.

Get even more adventurous with Posole soup (braised pork shoulder, achiote broth, hominy, oregano, cabbage, onion, cilantro and lime) or the American-Thai fried rice (ketchup fried rice with carrots, peas and raisins, with ham, bacon, sausage and a fried egg on the side). The rice could benefit from some complexity, or a little more umami, but the dish is unique and certainly worth trying. A highball glass of fresh-squeezed orange juice feels a little stingy for $4.95, but otherwise, the portions are generous. Attentive service and attractive presentation count for something, too.

The one serious drawback? The hours (7-10:30 a.m.) are presumably lopped off to allow House of Thai to switch to lunch service. Maybe you've heard rumors of the continued existence of a mythical pre-brunch meal on weekends called breakfast, but that's going to be a challenge for a lot of folks used to rolling into Boogaloo's at a quarter to two. But this is a pre-brunch affair worth setting the alarm for.

Fused, Saturdays and Sundays, 7:00-10:30am, at House of Thai, 901 Larkin St., (415) 441-2248.

Follow Pete at @wannacyber

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About The Author

Pete Kane

Pete Kane

Pete Kane is a total gaylord who is trying to get to every national park before age 40


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