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Monday, June 4, 2012

"Fat Bottom Girl" Cheese Makes the Dairy World Go Round

Posted By on Mon, Jun 4, 2012 at 11:00 AM


One great thing about Northern California: Whatever your foodie pleasure, there's always more of it out there than at first seems possible. We've lately discovered yet another great cheese out there in the hills: Fat Bottom Girl, spring cheese from Bleating Heart in Sonoma.

Like so many pursuing their crafts, founder and cheese maker Seana Doughty has a day job. Yet she went from zero farm or cheese experience to producing a very nice piece of cheese in less than a year. She also worked as a cheesemonger, founded a licensed sheep dairy (the fifth in California), and become President of the California Artisan Cheese Guild. Quite a lot of sheep and cheese for a Sociology Grad from UCSD who still pays the bills as a research administrator for a scientific research institute. But let's talk about the cheese, which is excellent.

We tried two.


Tasting Notes: A slim trunk of old bark. Mottled grey, brown, white, and tan in the texture of raw cork, grown protectively around a soft white center. Mid-firm tooth with a delicate to slightly sharp flavor and a whiff of the remnant. The mid-mild-semi-assertive center is offset nicely by toothy, mildly nutty rind. It evokes a forest floor under Redwoods, a blanket and a romantic picnic with striations of sunlight breaking through the canopy.


Fat Bottom Girl

Tasting Notes: The cheese that hooked us with the name before it was ever produced. We learned about it at the festival but had to wait over a month to get a slice. The rind is more classic, like Manchego, and the flavor a bit more developed. This cheese suggests the cellar and peaceful development. Lightly nutty notes evoked a "that is truly delicious'" from my visiting mother who enjoyed "even the rind." Modestly more sharp than the last, in the spirit of medium-sharp cheddar or a six-month aged Manchego. A modest mustiness to the rind reinforces the aged character.

Bleating Heart Cheeses are available at Cowgirl Creamery, Rainbow Grocery, and Cheese Plus.


Contact Ben Narisin at Follow us on Twitter at @sfoodie, and like us on Facebook.

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