SFoodie's countdown of our favorite 50 things to eat and drink, 2012 edition
There are only a few places in the United States where you can find pamonhas (pah-MONE-yahs), Brazilian fresh corn tamales, and one of them happens to be a little green-walled cafe in Daly City named after its signature dish. Pamonhas may even be more labor-intensive to make than their Mexican and Salvadoran counterparts: The cooks must grate dozens, if not hundreds, of ears of fresh corn, then stir the corn with milk and salt or sugar (they come in savory and sweet varieties), and pour the batter into corn husks. Folded the corn-husk packets and steaming or boiling them them is half a day's labor alone.
By contrast, unwrapping one of Pamonha's savory pamonhas de sal ($4.99) takes a few seconds -- you have to snip the string tying the packet together, then peel away husk after husk, the smell of fresh corn intensifying as you go. And finally you reach the steamy tamal itself, the color of a ripe lemon. But it's not as dense or as grainy as many dried-corn tamales. The starches in the grated kernals have swollen as the pamonha has cooked, binding the mass into something like a corn pudding. It's as buttery as it is vegetal, with a center vein of melted cheese that contributes a delicate tang. Even the savory pamonha tastes a little like dessert, and when Pamonha's cooks add in Brazilian sausage, it's a full meal in itself.
Pamonha's Brazilian Cuisine: 6005 Mission (at Templeton), Daly City, 585-4828.
Other favorites in this series:
14: Delfina's trippa alla fiorentina
15: Truffled tater tots from Leatherneck Steakhouse
16: Baia Pasta's durum-wheat pastas
17: Z&Y's flaming fish with chile oil
18: Auntie April's fried catfish
19: None but the Brave from Heaven's Dog
20: Saha's vegan kibbeh
21: Starter Bakery's hazelnut kouign amann
22: Pupusas at Cafe and Restaurant Montecristo
23: 2 a.m. apple fritter at Bob's
24: Le Sanctuaire's vadouvan
25: Crab louis salad at Nettie's Crab Shack
26: Soy sauce chicken from Happy Bakery & Deli
27: Locanda's Jewish-style artichoke
28: Local: Mission Eatery's asparagus-egg sandwich
29: Memphis Minnie's 18-hour brisket
30: Custard buns from City View
31: Mission Chinese Food's kung pao pastrami
32: Panisse frites from Frances
33: Izakaya Yuzuki's chawanmushi
34: Fatted Calf's chorizo
35: Silvanas from House of Silvanas
36: Linden Street Brewery's black lager
37: Aged oolongs from Red Blossom Tea Company
38: Broken Record's crawfish grits
39: Cebiche mixto from La Mar
