SFoodie's countdown of our favorite 50 things to eat and drink, 2012 edition
Kolkota's version of a New York slice, kati rolls were designed to eat on the street. Originally a meat skewer wrapped in a paratha (flaky flatbread), the rolls have evolved in numerous directions over the years -- some with egg and sliced onions and chiles, others with curried meats and chutneys.
The bright yellow curry is showered in shaved red onions, then dabbed with cilantro chutney -- and if you dare, green-chile sauce -- before being rolled up in a soft, thick roti. Cilantro grabs your attention first, and then coriander arrives, the dominant note in the curry's masala, sparkling and clean. The potatoes and cauliflower are simmered just until they're tender, but you can taste them underneath the spice. And as you crunch, onion's sulfurous bite flashes and dies and the chile's heat swells. Within a few bites, you're thankful for the presence of that roti, floury and a little flaky, which absorbs some of the burn.
Kasa's kati rolls are as stout as a burrito, but nowhere near as long; it's easy to fist one as you walk back from the truck to your office or sit on a concrete berm somewhere, watching people instead of a monitor. San Francisco's streets are full of crab cakes and sisigs and lomo saltados that have been truck-ified, sometimes well and sometimes awkwardly. It's a joy to find a street food like the kati roll that has been returned to its natural environment, where it is flourishing.
Other favorites in this series:
15: Truffled tater tots from Leatherneck Steakhouse
16: Baia Pasta's durum-wheat pastas
17: Z&Y's flaming fish with chile oil
18: Auntie April's fried catfish
19: None but the Brave from Heaven's Dog
20: Saha's vegan kibbeh
21: Starter Bakery's hazelnut kouign amann
22: Pupusas at Cafe and Restaurant Montecristo
23: 2 a.m. apple fritter at Bob's
24: Le Sanctuaire's vadouvan
25: Crab louis salad at Nettie's Crab Shack
26: Soy sauce chicken from Happy Bakery & Deli
27: Locanda's Jewish-style artichoke
28: Local: Mission Eatery's asparagus-egg sandwich
29: Memphis Minnie's 18-hour brisket
30: Custard buns from City View
31: Mission Chinese Food's kung pao pastrami
32: Panisse frites from Frances
33: Izakaya Yuzuki's chawanmushi
34: Fatted Calf's chorizo
35: Silvanas from House of Silvanas
36: Linden Street Brewery's black lager
37: Aged oolongs from Red Blossom Tea Company
38: Broken Record's crawfish grits
39: Cebiche mixto from La Mar
