Get SF Weekly Newsletters

Friday, April 6, 2012

Number 28: Local Mission Eatery's Asparagus-Egg Sandwich

Posted By on Fri, Apr 6, 2012 at 10:45 AM

The asparagus and egg sandwich at Local Mission Eatery - IANN IVY
  • Iann Ivy
  • The asparagus and egg sandwich at Local Mission Eatery

SFoodie's countdown of our favorite 50 things to eat and drink, 2012 edition


The Germans, of course, have a word for one of SFoodie's favorite times of year: Spargelzeit, or asparagus season. The appearance of asparagus is the moment when going to the farmers' market begins to seem like an adventure again, and when all we can think of is eating things that taste like they have just shot out of a bed of loam, unabashedly vegetal.

At Local: Mission Eatery, spargelzeit means the return of one of Jake Des Voignes' signature brunch-lunch dishes, an open-faced sandwich topped with poached eggs and asparagus from Zuckerman's Farm. It's the culinary equivalent of framing spring's first vegetable in a diamond bracelet.

Pools of liquid gold, thick and unctuous, hide in the centers of the smooth, cloud-white eggs, awaiting a slice of the knife to gild the asparagus and seep into the toasted slice of Shauna Des Voignes' buttery brioche. A poached egg on its own is opulent, it's still not enough for the chef. The cooks finish the dish by using a charged siphon to spray a cloud of Meyer lemon mousseline -- a tart Hollandaise sauce "lightened" up with cream -- over the eggs, asparagus, and toast. It's the kind of treatment asparagus deserves, a one-percenter-tasting dish with a $10 price.

Local: Mission Eatery: 3111 24th St. (at Folsom), 655-3422.

Other favorites in this series:

29: Memphis Minnie's 18-hour brisket

30: Custard buns from City View

31: Mission Chinese Food's kung pao pastrami

32: Panisse frites from Frances

33: Izakaya Yuzuki's chawanmushi

34: Fatted Calf's chorizo

35: Silvanas from House of Silvanas

36: Linden Street Brewery's black lager

37: Aged oolongs from Red Blossom Tea Company

38: Broken Record's crawfish grits

39: Cebiche mixto from La Mar 

40: Nutella-hazelnut hand pie from Black Jet Baking Co.
41: Fifth Floor's burger
42: Perbacco's agnolotti dal plin
43: Iced coffee from Sightglass
44: Cypress Grove's Purple Haze Chevre
45: Lechon from Tastebuds Cuisine
46: Duck with beets from AQ
47: Tai nigiri at ICHI Sushi
48: Fish with explosive chiles from Spices! 
49: Baker & Banker Bakery's blueberry cream cheese muffin
50: Kufta tajine from Cafe Zitouna

Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodie, and like us on Facebook.
Follow me at @JonKauffman.

  • Pin It

Tags: , ,

About The Author

Jonathan Kauffman


Subscribe to this thread:

Add a comment

Popular Stories

  1. Most Popular Stories
  2. Stories You Missed

Like us on Facebook


  • clipping at Brava Theater Sept. 11
    Sub Pop recording artists 'clipping.' brought their brand of noise-driven experimental hip hop to the closing night of 2016's San Francisco Electronic Music Fest this past Sunday. The packed Brava Theater hosted an initially seated crowd that ended the night jumping and dancing against the front of the stage. The trio performed a set focused on their recently released Sci-Fi Horror concept album, 'Splendor & Misery', then delved into their dancier and more aggressive back catalogue, and recent single 'Wriggle'. Opening performances included local experimental electronic duo 'Tujurikkuja' and computer music artist 'Madalyn Merkey.'"