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Friday, March 30, 2012

Salumeria: Come for the Sandwich, Stay for the Potato Salad (And Maybe Another Sandwich)

Posted By on Fri, Mar 30, 2012 at 5:45 PM

WENDY HECTOR
  • Wendy Hector

Judging by the number of customers devouring sandwiches and heading back for seconds, the upcoming Salumeria deli and sandwich shop should have no problem winning over a crowd. During a three-hour lunchtime pop-up the Flour + Water offshoot held today at the Window, foodies had the chance to preview a few choice items before Salumeria's April 26 opening.

On offer were two sandwiches, both built for carnivores. The first featured lonza (cured pork loin, similar to prosciutto but leaner) served on a baguette with pantaleo cheese, arugula, and a fava bean purée. It looked good, but the friendly gal at the counter assured SFoodie that the second sandwich, the roast beef, was "definitely where it's at."

Tender roast beef, perfectly pink, sat on a poppy-seed pretzel roll spread with dollops of fonduta (cheese sauce). You'd expect the sandwich to be oozing liquid cheese, but it turns out the fonduta is merely a vehicle for horseradish but also served to mellow out its spice. The real star was the pretzel roll. Soft, with just the right amount of chew, the bread was strong enough to easily soak in the horseradish fonduta and the moist meat without falling apart. The subtle crunch of the poppy seeds was a nice contrast to the supple layers of beef and the creaminess of the horseradish-cheese spread -- on the whole, a satisfying, if simple, sandwich.

A few side items were also available: cottage cheese with bacon and peas, homemade salt-and-vinegar potato chips, and potato salad. The gentlemen next to us seemed so amazed by the potato salad that we returned to the window.

The salad was packed so full of flavor that after the first bite we exclaimed aloud. Chunks of fingerling potatoes lay coated in a creamy, tangy aioli-type sauce loaded with grains of mustard, capers, and green garlic. A bit of spice, a bit of bite, and a whole lot of bang for your buck made this the standout dish of the day.

Follow Wendy Hector on Twitter at @aglio_o_morte. Follow us at @sfoodie, and like us on Facebook.

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Wendy Hector

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