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Alex Hochman
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The Schnitzelwich will be a staple of the Old World Food Truck's menu
After nearly eight months of test-driving old school Jewish classics like borscht and corned beef during pop-up dinners at
La Victoria, Kenny Hockert is finally ready to launch his
Old World Food Truck in an actual food truck.
Hockert plans a soft debut during the third or fourth week of April and expects to be in full swing by early May, hopefully with a spot in Off the Grid's regular rotation. After designing his truck's kitchen to mimic that of La Victoria's, Hockert anticipates a smooth transition. "I'm sure that we'll be figuring some things out along the way, but we have plenty of burners and a big fryer, so it should be smooth," he tells us.
Sfoodie recently sampled some of the menu offerings making the leap to truckdom. For his "schnitzelwich" ($9), Hockert fries a thin chicken cutlet to a faint crunch before adding a brush of earthy chopped liver, a small spoonful of green garlic slaw, and a trickle of honey. The flavors are clean and light, the polar opposite of the local fried chicken gut-bombs currently in vogue. Even lighter, almost miraculously so, is Hockert's spring vegetable knish ($5) in which a delicate buttery pastry gives way to a puff of mashed potatoes blended with carrots, peas, and leeks, all purchased from farmer's market vendors earlier that day. It's more Tartine than Yonah Schimmel.
New for the truck will be Hungarian-influenced fries topped with smoked paprika or fresh horseradish and dill, as well as custom-made drinks from SodaCraft. Hockert vows to continue his weekly dinners at La Victoria with a special focus on Jewish holiday meals, including next weekend's
Passover feast, featuring "lamb two ways" with the roasted leg rubbed with middle eastern spices and the shanks stewed with dried fruits.
Asked why the time is right for a Jewish food truck, Hockert grows sentimental. "These are my family's foods that I grew up with at my grandma's house in Queens. These foods tell a story. To do it with the kinds of quality ingredients that we have access to in the Bay Area just seems to make a lot of sense."
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