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Tuesday, March 20, 2012

No. 40: Black Jet Baking Co.'s Nutella-Hazelnut Hand Pie

Posted By on Tue, Mar 20, 2012 at 5:00 PM

Black Jet Baking Co.'s not-Pop-Tart - JONATHAN KAUFFMAN
  • Jonathan Kauffman
  • Black Jet Baking Co.'s not-Pop-Tart

SFoodie's countdown of our favorite 50 things to eat and drink, 2012 edition


Certain foodistas have decried the cupcake boom as the infantilization of American tastes. But the rise of the hand pie -- "Pop Tart" to those of you who don't care about violating trademark law -- doesn't necessarily belong to the same phenomenon. Shrinking the pie into a thin square isn't about making it cute, it's about being able to sit at a cafe, typing away, and occasionally picking up one of Black Jet Baking Co.'s hand pies to gnaw on.

Though, if we're going to tell the truth, SFoodie will admit that eating Black Jet's hand pies is a two-hand affair: Given the way the crust flakes, we need to keep one hand below our lips at all times to catch the spray of debris. 

Seriously, that crust is pretty remarkable, composed of frail flakes of pastry so wide they almost stretch from one edge to the other, as if bakers Gillian Shaw and Max Newman were secretly working with phyllo instead of all-butter pastry. And while the flavor of the filling in the fruit pies doesn't always come through, in the Nutella-hazelnut version both chocolate and salted, ground hazelnuts assert themselves. You taste, simultaneously, the chocolate-hazelnut fusion of Nutella as well as its two component flavors. It's like being able to watch a 3-D film without glasses and see both the doubled-up images and the 3-D composite at the same time. 

Black Jet Baking Co.: Ferry Building, stall 38b, 845-9925, and available at cafes such as Matching Half, Ritual Roasters, and Atlas Cafe.

Other favorites in this series:

41: Fifth Floor's burger

42: Perbacco's agnolotti dal plin

43: Iced coffee from Sightglass

44: Cypress Grove's Purple Haze Chevre

45: Lechon from Tastebuds Cuisine

46: Duck with beets from AQ

47: Tai nigiri at ICHI Sushi

48: Fish with explosive chiles from Spices! 

49: Baker & Banker Bakery's blueberry cream cheese muffin
50: Kufta tajine from Cafe Zitouna

Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodie, and like us on Facebook.
Follow me at @JonKauffman.

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Jonathan Kauffman


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