Get SF Weekly Newsletters

Monday, March 19, 2012

No. 41: Fifth Floor's Burger

Posted By on Mon, Mar 19, 2012 at 12:00 PM

Fifth Floor's burger, $16. - ALBERT LAW
  • Albert Law
  • Fifth Floor's burger, $16.

SFoodie's countdown of our favorite 50 things to eat and drink, 2012 edition


The premium burger may just be the defining dish of the past decade: You can accuse it of being winkingly populist, but it's popular nonetheless. You can criticize it as a case of needless upscaling -- and in fact, there's something cynical about charging $60 for a beef patty topped in truffles and foie gras -- but, the fact is, a $16 burger like Fifth Floor's is a world apart from an In 'n' Out Double Double.

A burger, most of all, should taste of beef, not mealy, pink-slime-fortified ground meat. David Bazirgan's cooks form the patty out of ground short rib, chuck, and skirt steak -- all cuts known for their deep flavor, as opposed to that namby-pamby sirloin -- and well-larded with fat.

They grill it so that it's pink and oozy in the center and grill-crisped on the outside. No need for molecular gastronomy

here, just good cooking. Then it's smothered in caramelized onions and

melted comté cheese and placed between a brioche bun so light you'd

suspect the burger was levitating its way to your mouth if it weren't

for the buttery taste of the bread. With fries and a drink (and tax and

tip) in Fifth Floor's lounge, you'll pay $30. Pricey: yes. Worth it:

that, too.

Fifth Floor: 12 Fourth St. (at Market), fifth floor, 348-1555,

Other favorites in this series:

42: Perbacco's agnolotti dal plin

43: Iced coffee from Sightglass

44: Cypress Grove's Purple Haze Chevre

45: Lechon from Tastebuds Cuisine

46: Duck with beets from AQ

47: Tai nigiri at ICHI Sushi

48: Fish with explosive chiles from Spices! 

49: Baker & Banker Bakery's blueberry cream cheese muffin
50: Kufta tajine from Cafe Zitouna

Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodie, and like us on Facebook.
Follow me at @JonKauffman.

  • Pin It

Tags: , , ,

About The Author

Jonathan Kauffman


Subscribe to this thread:

Add a comment

Popular Stories

  1. Most Popular Stories
  2. Stories You Missed

Like us on Facebook


  • clipping at Brava Theater Sept. 11
    Sub Pop recording artists 'clipping.' brought their brand of noise-driven experimental hip hop to the closing night of 2016's San Francisco Electronic Music Fest this past Sunday. The packed Brava Theater hosted an initially seated crowd that ended the night jumping and dancing against the front of the stage. The trio performed a set focused on their recently released Sci-Fi Horror concept album, 'Splendor & Misery', then delved into their dancier and more aggressive back catalogue, and recent single 'Wriggle'. Opening performances included local experimental electronic duo 'Tujurikkuja' and computer music artist 'Madalyn Merkey.'"