Traditional Sunday brunch in New Orleans is something special, from the white tablecloths and
Eggs Sardou to classic cocktails and live jazz. But the Boxing Room, Hayes
Valley's lively Cajun/Creole restaurant, isn't trying to imitate any of
that with its recently added brunch menu.
Turns out, that's a good thing.
What they've created instead is something unique: delicious and
authentic Louisiana bayou food in an open, relaxed setting that doesn't
feel the least bit contrived.
It's true that a Southern, "soul food" brunch menu can be tricky to
pull off, overloaded with greasy fried chicken, or mistakenly elevated with duck confit. The Boxing Room, however,
does it just right. Many of the dishes are ones you're likely to see
down in Louisiana, like classic Grillades and Grits ($16) and a Fried
Seafood Po'Boy ($14 to $18). We have Chef Justin Simoneaux to thank for
the authenticity; he's a southern Louisiana native.
beer, but that beer selection is huge. It's made up of both Northern
California and Louisiana brews (think Abita), with a few international
ones thrown in the mix. The wine choices are fewer, running the gamut of California, France, and Italy, and they're served by the glass or on tap. The
Boxing Room's beer and wine cocktails give us a break from tired
mimosas; the First Call ($5) is a mix of stout and coffee, while the
Debutante ($9) mixes Chenin Blanc with grapefruit juice, ginger beer, and
elderberry syrup.
complimentary basket of thin crackers and a small bowl of pimento cheese
dip, not too spicy and not overly creamy. Gotta love that Southern
hospitality.
among the table. These warm, impossibly soft pillows are almost
completely hollow, doughy on the inside, fried to perfection, and dusted
with just the right amount of powdered sugar. As if that's not enough,
they're served with a chocolate-espresso cream for dipping, which full of roasty flavor without tasting sickly sweet.
number of the dishes, but not in an obnoxious way. The
Crab-and-Artichoke Cakes ($18) strike a great balance, with a smoky,
bacon-infused vinaigrette lightly covering a bed of spinach leaves. The
cakes -- topped with poached eggs and a buttery hollandaise -- are
served on top, deep brown and crispy, with plenty of crab and a
delicate artichoke flavor. The restaurant also offers a pork-free
version for those who prefer it (but we recommend the real deal).
bones about its comfort food status, right down to the cast iron pan it's
cooked and served in. Two deliciously runny eggs are surrounded by a mix
of regular and sweet potatoes, all covered in a thick, slightly spicy
red sauce loaded with chunks of tender andouille sausage. It's rich and
hearty in the best possible way, and the perfectly seasoned sausage is something really special.
though at peak brunch hours you may still see some open seats at the
bar. The crowd is lively, the room is bright and open, and chefs have
nailed the short menu. True, you might pay a few dollars less for each
dish somewhere else, but these classic favorites -- executed perfectly
-- are well worth it.
