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2. Brioche from Knead Patisserie, 3111 24th St. (at Folsom), inside Local: Mission Eatery, 655-3024.
Shauna Des Voignes' brioche is so opulent that it's best consumed in parsimonious slices. And warm, too, so that each pale gold slice develops crumbly brown edges and the slice leaches flecks of melted butter onto any surface it's laid on. Her brioche is a savory cake, fine-grained and rich without being dense. It calls out for warm honey or perhaps a smear of peach preserves -- or even nothing at all.
