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Tuesday, September 13, 2011

The Five Best Breads in San Francisco

Posted By on Tue, Sep 13, 2011 at 10:40 AM

Page 2 of 5

Firebrand's walnut wheat. - JONATHAN KAUFFMAN
  • Jonathan Kauffman
  • Firebrand's walnut wheat.

4. Walnut wheat from

Firebrand Artisan Breads. Available in San Francisco at Bi-Rite and Rainbow Grocery.

Matt and Mary Kreutz bake in a wood-fired oven in a warehouse in Oakland, not a bad metaphor for the rustic, urbane breads they produce. Firebrand's walnut-wheat is so earthy it's almost elemental. You have to fight with the loaf to grab off a chunk, worrying that the jagged crust will puncture skin, but the flavor is worth the fight, deep and tinged with smoke, its potent tang broken up by pebbles of creamy walnut meat. It's the kind of bread you imagine was made by a 14th century master baker.

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Jonathan Kauffman

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