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Friday, September 2, 2011

Pan Lido's Pastelitos Have the Right Touch

Posted By on Fri, Sep 2, 2011 at 11:15 AM

Pan Lido's pastelito de mango. - JONATHAN KAUFFMAN
  • Jonathan Kauffman
  • Pan Lido's pastelito de mango.

You see rows of pastelitos at every Salvadoran bakery in town -- and there are more of them in San Francisco than SFoodie can count. With their swollen centers, pregnant with jams, and edges twisted as neatly as a ballerina's chignon, they look like miniature hand pies promising a gush of bright fruit with every bite.

But most of the pastelitos we've eaten over the years have been an unearthly color of yellow, either tough and crumbly or a brick of stale dough. Not our favorite Salvadoran pan dulce. (That would be the quesadilla, sweet cheese cake.)

However, the Excelsior location of Pan Lido Bakery (which is run independently of the Pan Lido in the Mission) has the touch: There's a friable graininess to

the shortbread shell of its pastelitos that doesn't stale easily. In

fact, we've passed by the bakery as new cookies were coming

out of the oven, and the crisp, warm cookies weren't as good as the ones

that had time to cool. (Shocking.)

They're sweet, but not too sweet,

and not so fatty that we're left with an aftertaste of old Crisco. Under

the dome, you can find plum compote, guava jam, or mangos, but our

favorite might be the pastelitos de leche, filled with a dollop of a

milk jam, sweetened milk cooked down to the consistency of custard.

Each

pastelito costs 50 cents, making it easy to sample your way down the

row of eight cookies for less than $5.


Pan Lido (Crocker Amazon location): 5216 Mission (at Pope), 333-2140. 

Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodieand like us on Facebook.
Follow me at @JonKauffman.

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Jonathan Kauffman

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