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Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Toast Deli's Sisig Surprise Sandwich Is One Hot Mess (and That's Good)

Posted By on Tue, Aug 30, 2011 at 4:38 PM

Toast Deli's Sisig Surprise: There is no way to make this sandwich look good. - JONATHAN KAUFFMAN
  • Jonathan Kauffman
  • Toast Deli's Sisig Surprise: There is no way to make this sandwich look good.

Even before SFoodie learned of the existence of Toast Deli's Sisig Surprise sandwich from @joanneisafoodie, we could have predicted it it was out there, waiting for us to learn of its existence.

Sisig, a drinking snack created in the 1970s, has become a generational touchstone, the dish that seems to define modern Filipino food in the Bay Area. SFoodie has seen fish, chicken, pork, tofu, and chickboy (chicken-pork) sisig on local menus, not to mention sisig nachos and pizza. We have bought more sisig tacos from food trucks than we can count. If Proctor & Gamble introduced sisig-flavored Pringles, we'd probably buy them, too.

When we walked into the 10-month-old Toast Deli, located in a back corner of the King Plaza shopping center in Daly City, owner Chris Arcilla was hanging out at one of the shop's two booths, minding a herd of kids ranging in age from the squealy to the sullen. One of the older ones took our order for the pork sisig sandwich ($9) and, after the cook had delivered it to him, came out to sit near me, watching "White Chicks" on TV. 

The bun could barely contain Toast's entropic sandwich. Chopped pork spilled out of its sides, and the moment we picked up one half, the yolk in the puffy fried egg burst, saturating the meat and gilding our fingers. The chopped pork was doused in Arcilla's "hitter" sauce, with enough soy sauce and lime to make the meat pulse with umami, standing up to the bite of raw onion and sting of jalapeños. 


We found ourselves stuffing the spilled pork back into the bun, smearing yolk and soy sauce all over our hands, praying the gaggle of tweens would continue to ignore us as we engaged in etiquette breaches that would have horrified their parents and ours. The surprise of the sisig sandwich was that, flavor-wise at least, it could bear the weight of its own richness. It deserves a food truck of its own. 

Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodie, and like us on Facebook.
Follow me at @JonKauffman.

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Jonathan Kauffman

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