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Thursday, July 28, 2011

Bacon Bacon Truck Gets Hype Hype

Posted By on Thu, Jul 28, 2011 at 11:00 AM

Bacon Bacon Truck, as sighted from the back of the mosh pit. - JONATHAN KAUFFMAN
  • Jonathan Kauffman
  • Bacon Bacon Truck, as sighted from the back of the mosh pit.

The first time I tried to go to Bacon Bacon Truck, the new food truck with a self-explanatory menu, I arrived too late. Fifty or sixty people already surrounded the truck, half of them holding up cameras to document their own scene. "What's the wait time? About an hour?" I asked one of them, and she nodded, and so I turned around and walked back to the car, passing a group of customers who'd decided to while away the time before their bacon-ified sandwiches arrived by smoking out.

For all the snarky foodistas who've declared bacon as over as Ricky Martin, it still draws a crowd. Bacon Bacon Truck didn't just send out a few Tweets and attract throngs of baconophiles. Now, in its second week, the online TV show Epic Meal Time has already filmed an episode on the truck, and tonight, the truck debuts at Off the Grid Upper Haight. When I stopped by 246 Ritch today to eat lunch, one of the customers was already wearing the truck's "You Had Me at Bacon" T-shirt.

Bacon Bacon's "almost veggie" sandwich, $7. - JONATHAN KAUFFMAN
  • Jonathan Kauffman
  • Bacon Bacon's "almost veggie" sandwich, $7.

The truck serves a short menu of sandwiches: burgers, meatball-bacon

banh mi, and BLTs (with goat cheese, leading to the cute acronym LGBT).

There are also fries sprinkled with fried pork belly trimmings and bacon caramel corn for dessert. Oh, and something called a "bacon bouquet."

So I ordered the almost veggie (broccoli rabe, roasted peppers, provolone, Sriracha mayo, and you guessed it) and got in line. David Chiu's crew -- the San Francisco supervisor, a few volunteers, somebody in a Chiubacca costume -- were working the crowd, trying to acquire signatures for Chiu's mayoral run. I retreated to a corner where I wouldn't rub up against the faux-Wookiee and snacked on some bacon caramel corn while I waited ... for 45 minutes. The caramel corn didn't hold out.

After sprinting back to the car, parked at a meter that had long expired, I tried to grapple with the clots of melted cheese spilling out of the roll. If the rabe had been less overcooked, and the cheese less bland and gloopy, the combination of spicy mayo and roasted vegetables with bacon would definitely work. As it were, most of what I tasted was bitter greens and bun; the flavor of the smoked pork was strangely quiet. Clearly, scoring instabuzz means it's going to take a few extra months for Bacon Bacon Truck to master its sandwiches. In the meantime, I'd have one piece of advice for the cooks:

More bacon.

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Follow me at @JonKauffman.

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Jonathan Kauffman


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