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Thursday, June 30, 2011

A Bulleit You Won't Want to Dodge

Posted By on Thu, Jun 30, 2011 at 1:47 PM

click to enlarge bulleitryebottle.jpg

When interest in classic cocktails like the Sazerac exposed rye as the pre-Prohibition whiskey of choice, demand soared. The rediscovery of the spirit -- which benefited from the spiced, full flavors that the grain contributes, as well as a low price and required use in long-forgotten recipes -- quickly led to shortages.

"What I love about rye whiskey is that it has an assertive, spicy character that allows it to shine in cocktails," explained Dylan O'Brien, co-owner and bar manager at Bloodhound. "Bourbon can be sort of sweet and one-dimensional, while rye has loads of character."

The shortage also led to the creation of new brands. Bulleit Rye ($21.99 at K&L), one of the newest, has become quickly become one of the most sought-after in San Francisco. It is distilled from 95 percent rye and 5 percent barley, rather than a heavy dose of corn as in more established brands. The boost in rye content and its four years of aging in new American oak barrels means that the Bulleit Rye works great both on the rocks and in cocktails.

click to enlarge The Rock'n Rye cocktail - TRIP HOSELY
  • Trip Hosely
  • The Rock'n Rye cocktail

At Bloodhound, O'Brien features it in a drink called The Sevillano that balances the oak with the sweetness and bitterness of Cocchi Americano, Gran Classico, and orange juice.

Taking a more classic approach, Trip Hosely at Sauce is making Rock'n Rye (Bulleit Rye with a homemade lemon rock-candy stir stick, $10), based on the old whiskey-based liqueur. "It's a great, simple, classic cocktail that deserved to be resurrected from the pre-bottled version, which bastardized its good name," says Hosely. He explains that he chose Bulleit rye for the drink because "we just loved the way the heat and wood of the Bulleit combined with smooth sweetness of the lemon candy."

Although SFoodie believes all home bars should be equipped with at least several different bottles of rye, the combination of quality, 95 percent rye expression, and price make it an exceptional bottle to begin exploring the style with.

Lou Bustamante tweets at @thevillagedrunk. Follow SFoodie at @sfoodie, and like us on Facebook.

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