Get SF Weekly Newsletters

Friday, June 3, 2011

Tony's Serves Up San Francisco's First Detroit-Style Pizza

Posted By on Fri, Jun 3, 2011 at 8:46 AM

One bite and you'll be humming Iggy Pop tunes. - ALEX HOCHMAN
  • Alex Hochman
  • One bite and you'll be humming Iggy Pop tunes.

"Pizza" and "Detroit" aren't words typically thrown together, yet ask any Michigan expats about pizza and they'll instantly wax poetic about the butter-crusted square pies at Buddy's, Cottage Inn, or the sadly departed Mitch's. Still, this SFoodie blogger, who spent his early childhood and college days in the Wolverine State, was surprised to learn that Tony's Pizza Nepolitana was adding a Detroit variety to its already vast repertoire. Weren't eight styles of pizza enough?

To the eye, Tony's "Red Top" pie ($19) had all the characteristics of its Midwest counterparts. As in Detroit, the pizza is delivered to the table in the same square pan it's baked in. The pie is coated with generous amounts of mild white cheddar and brick cheese and topped with a fruity tomato sauce. The purposefully burnt garlic-studded crust was over-the-top crispy around the edges but bready and chewy on the bottom.

The sensation of the blackened crust, cheese, and sauce reminded SFoodie of a slightly overdone grilled cheese sandwich paired with a cup of intense tomato soup. Well, that was our server's analogy, but we couldn't agree more. The only thing that would have improved this Motown homage is if it'd been served with a pitcher of Stroh's beer, preferably in a bowling alley. Now, if someone around here could figure out a way to re-create a good Coney dog. C'mon, it can't be that hard.

Tony's Pizza Napoletana, 1570 Stockton (at Union), 835-9888. Hours: Wed.-Sun. noon-11 p.m.

Follow Alex Hochman at @urbanstomach.

Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodie, and like us on Facebook.

  • Pin It

Tags: , , , ,

About The Author

Alex Hochman

Comments

Subscribe to this thread:

Add a comment

Popular Stories

  1. Most Popular Stories
  2. Stories You Missed

Like us on Facebook

Slideshows

  • clipping at Brava Theater Sept. 11
    Sub Pop recording artists 'clipping.' brought their brand of noise-driven experimental hip hop to the closing night of 2016's San Francisco Electronic Music Fest this past Sunday. The packed Brava Theater hosted an initially seated crowd that ended the night jumping and dancing against the front of the stage. The trio performed a set focused on their recently released Sci-Fi Horror concept album, 'Splendor & Misery', then delved into their dancier and more aggressive back catalogue, and recent single 'Wriggle'. Opening performances included local experimental electronic duo 'Tujurikkuja' and computer music artist 'Madalyn Merkey.'"